I’m trying ‘horse therapy’ in Portugal, where time in the saddle helps me reconnect with my childhood – and with my mother

The first thing I notice when we drive through the gate of Quinta Carvalhas are the beautiful Lusitano horses lounging in the paddock. Their ears perk up and as we approach the house, surrounded by lemon trees and pink bougainvillea, a small dog greets us.

My sister, Charlotte, and I spent our childhood riding horses, sometimes with our late mother, and we came to Quinta Carvalhas, a retreat center near Golegã, the horse capital of Portugal, to experience the equine therapy program.

Horses have helped me through countless challenges, from my parents’ divorce to the difficult early years of parenthood, but a fall a few years ago left me losing my confidence.

The farm, which opened last year 60 miles north of Lisbon after renovations by South African owners Michelle and Richard Thomas, is home to 16 horses, including several Lusitanos. The Portuguese pure blood is one of the most respected and oldest breeds.

It’s hard to believe we’re just an hour away from bustling Lisbon, where we enjoyed a 24-hour tuk tuk tour, lunch at the opulent Seen Sky Bar and spent a night at the newly opened Locke de Santa Joanaa former monastery, now an ‘apart hotel’ with a beautiful restaurant, whiskey bar and swimming pool.

We start with a session with Swedish horse trainer and dressage champion Tana Ericson, who tells us about the difference between ‘warm-blooded’ (known for strength and endurance), warm-blooded (good all-rounders) and cold-blooded horses (stoic and stocky). She asks us to describe ourselves on the same scale.

We meet the horses, including a Lusitano named Chancellor and a handsome cob named Bentley. We are then asked what we like about our horses.

Tana explains that horses are like mirrors when it comes to reading and reflecting our ‘energy’. Bentley, I am told, has picked up on my ‘playfulness’ and is becoming more relaxed as a result. I feel absurdly flattered.

Georgina Fuller tries equine therapy at Quinta Carvalhas near Golegã – the horse capital of Portugal – which can be a ‘life-changing’ experience

Quinta Carvalhas (above) opened last year 60 miles north of Lisbon after renovations by its South African owners, Michelle and Richard Thomas. It is home to 16 horses

The next day starts with yoga prior to our trail ride. It’s the first time my sister and I have ridden together in years, and I wish our mother, who died of heart failure when I was in my 20s, was with us.

The final part of our equine therapy includes a one-on-one session with Tana, where I am asked to choose a horse to lead into the arena. I choose Mr Blue, a gigantic Lusitano cross. I’m intimidated by his size and stature. But after spending time guiding this gentle giant around the ring, I feel more confident.

Michelle tells me that equine therapy can be ‘life-changing’.

‘Horses provide insight into what you experience in life. They provide a non-judgmental presence and a calming reflection,” she says.

Bentley, Michelle says, is not always candid. He trotted off with one guest and hid in the stable.

Sadly, the guest said it’s because “everyone is leaving her.” She used Bentley’s response as a catalyst in an attempt to change her body language.

After three days we say goodbye with regret, but my faith in horses has been restored.

I have reconnected with my childhood and, I realize, with my mother. I like to think her spirit was with us and I know she would have loved those Lusitanos too.