Finding peace in Greece: Halkidiki is known for its lively bars and sprawling resorts. But head to a nearby peninsula for unspoilt villages, cobalt seas – and King Charles’ spiritual retreat

After three laps on the same winding path, and a few neat words on the navigation, we finally see the discreet sign of our hotel.

As we steer the rental car down another winding path, it suddenly – excitingly – emerges as a collection of angular wooden buildings that seem to split into the grassy hillside and descend to the sea.

Apart from the small detour, it takes only 90 minutes to reach this part of Chalkidiki after arriving in Thessaloniki, the second largest city in Greece.

But at that time we were driving through a vast landscape of silvery olive groves and wide open spaces, if the temperature wasn’t so high we would have thought we were in the Lake District.

Odd really, considering that Halkidiki, a large peninsula in northern Greece, is a name often associated with lively nightlife, bustling tavernas and crowded beaches. But it is actually divided into three smaller peninsulas that jut out into the Aegean like a trio of gnarled fingers.

Angela Epstein explores the island of Ammouliani (pictured), which is located in the bay of the Athos peninsula in Halkidiki

And it is only the first finger – known as Cassandra – that has become a centre for mass tourism and larger sprawling resorts.

Continue to our destination on the third finger, the Athos peninsula, and you will find a completely different place.

Miles of landscape dotted with fishing villages, chestnut forests and surrounded by incredibly clear blue water, said to be the clearest in Greece.

Athos is crowned by Mount Athos and a community of 24 monasteries, Angela reveals

Above, the Vatopedi Monastery, which King Charles visited on many occasions

The whole is crowned by Mount Athos and a community of about 24 monasteries.

King Charles visited this place several times and is said to have sought spiritual guidance from his good friend, the abbot of the Greek Orthodox Vatopedi Monastery, after he was diagnosed with cancer.

Our hotel, the Avaton, perfectly matches the atmosphere of this tranquil peninsula. A discreetly luxurious collection of suites, villas and rooms set in lush gardens. There is no communal pool – instead many rooms have private pools with built-in sunbeds.

Communion takes place on Avaton’s sheltered beach, where the glassy waters seem undisturbed by waves. Breakfast is served under gauzy gazebos, with the option of serving dinner on the beach itself.

If you want to see Mount Athos, Angel recommends taking a coastal cruise from the town of Ouranoupolis (pictured)

Athos is the so-called ‘third finger’ of Chalkidiki

Given the topography, planning is vital if you want to explore this part of Halkidiki: it can get very hot. The good news is that in this time zone it stays light until around 8.45pm, so you don’t have to sweat under the relentless Hellenic sun. The hotel can arrange bikes, including electric ones, so one day, around 6pm, when the sun is starting to lose some of its power, we cycle up the hills before descending to the small seaside village of Nea Roda, where the houses are draped in bougainvillea and the tavernas serve freshly caught fish.

Another day we hire a motorboat to visit a trio of small islands. Ammouliani, the largest, is the only permanently inhabited of the three – and then with only 600 inhabitants, although there are still a few tavernas and souvenir shops. In contrast, neighbouring Goat Island is just a rocky outcrop where my husband Martin gives free rein to his adventurous nature, drops anchor and swims to shore, only to be greeted by a group of – yes – goats on the rough sand. Their inscrutable gaze makes it unclear whether we are welcome or not.

If you would like to see Mount Athos, there are several coastal cruises available from the town of Ouranoupolis, just a ten minute drive from our hotel.

Feminists, look away. Women have been banned from the sacred mountain for about 1,000 years, but you get a good view of it from the boat.

Angela is staying at Avaton, above, which ‘perfectly suits the atmosphere of this peaceful peninsula’

Stagira is the birthplace of Aristotle. Above is a statue of the philosopher in the old town, with its ruins ‘scattered over a hilltop overlooking the Gulf’

If you enjoy hiking, this part of hidden Halkidiki offers numerous trails and routes. Thanks to the long days of high season, we set out around 6pm to explore on foot. We made sure we had a clear guidebook on Google Maps, hats, water and a UV umbrella. Another day, we drive 45 minutes to ancient Stagira, the birthplace of Aristotle, where ruins of the original city are scattered across a hilltop overlooking the gulf.

Another 30-minute walk takes you to Aristotle Park, where a series of interactive outdoor instruments, including optical discs, a water turbine, a telescope and a sound box, illustrate the ancient philosopher’s teaching programme to his students (not least Alexander the Great).

After days of exploring, it’s wonderful to return to our hotel and enjoy some peace and quiet.

As a warm, soft wind blows through our clothes and we enjoy crispy, colorful salads from our own garden, the soul of hidden Chalkidiki becomes tangible.

For partygoers and nightlife lovers, the accusing finger points in a different direction.