South Africa’s dormant secret: the recent election shock spotlighted this tranquil and beautiful wine country village

The town of Riebeek-Kasteel – deep in beautiful wine country, 80 kilometers northeast of Cape Town – played a key role in apartheid.

It was the birthplace of two former – and controversial – white South African prime ministers: DF Malan and Jan Smuts.

That makes it an intriguing place to visit, coming soon after last week’s elections, when the African National Congress lost its majority for the first time since the end of apartheid thirty years ago in 1994.

This is mainly because Riebeek-Kasteel is an important enclave of the centre-right Democratic Alliance, which received 22 percent of the votes, compared to 40 percent for the ANC.

Suddenly this small settlement (1,200 inhabitants) is firmly on the map again – and for all the right reasons.

Graham Boynton says the recent political shift in South Africa has put the town of Riebeek-Kasteel ‘firmly back on the map – and for all the right reasons’

Simply divine: the city is located deep in the wine region, 80 kilometers northeast of Cape Town

Set against a spectacular backdrop of rolling farmlands and the Kasteelberg Mountains, the city center is a haven for artists, boutique owners, winemakers and old hippies. It is an hour’s drive from Cape Town.

In the centre is the Royal Hotel, famous for the longest stoep (veranda) south of the Limpopo River, and also for the boisterous evenings in the 150-year-old bar. It is a great first stop to get a feel for the rich history of Riebeek-Kasteel.

The town was opened to western settlement in 1661, when an expedition from Cape Town sent by Jan van Riebeeck, founder of the Cape Colony, climbed the pass and looked down on this green valley. The name Kasteel Riebeek (Castle) was in honour of their commander.

In the 400 years since, many have been lured by the town’s secluded beauty, including a Dutchman named Robert Brendel, who came across Riebeek in 2004 and fell in love with it – so much so that he bought the Royal Hotel.

Located in the center of the city, the Royal Hotel is known for its ‘lavish evenings in its 150 year old bar’ and the longest sidewalk (porch) south of the Limpopo River

One of the attractions of Riebeek-Kasteel is its wine, Graham reveals (stock image)

“It felt like David Livingstone had just left the building,” Brendel says. “And it’s the only town I know where you have the school, the church and the hotel next to each other – education, salvation and damnation on the same street.”

Riebeek-Kasteel is also a destination for foodies. Tourists come from far and wide to eat at Au Bouchon Rouge, the Marseille-style restaurant attached to the Royal Hotel.

Another draw is the wine, thanks in part to the Swartland Revolution that began in 2010: a wine uprising involving a dozen wineries. The founders got together and came up with a plan for an annual food and wine festival.

Twenty minutes from the city centre is Roundstone Farm, home to the Mullineux wine family. Chris and his wife Andrea consistently win international awards for their Swartland wines.

At the end of my visit, Chris looks up at Kasteelberg and says, ‘This place makes you feel elated. It’s remote, beautiful, strange. I just hope it doesn’t change.’

Au Bouchon Rouge, the Marseille-style restaurant next to the Royal Hotel