Choose Leith! Edinburgh’s harbourside district, once the gritty setting for Trainspotting, has become a world-class
Leith, Edinburgh’s distinctive docklands, has historically had an unhealthy reputation.
Once a popular haunt for sailors and night owls, in the 1990s it became the location for Irvine Welsh’s heroin addicts in Trainspotting.
But don’t let that scare you off.
Over the past two decades there has been a steady gentrification, with the introduction of wider boulevards, a tram line and a plethora of new bars, restaurants and interesting shops.
An ideal place to escape the hustle and bustle, with the Edinburgh International Festival taking place this month (the festival runs until 25th August), and it’s also a short tram ride from the stuffy tartanerie of the Royal Mile.
All lit up: Katie Tilbury explores Leith, Edinburgh’s ‘quirky’ dockside district (above)
‘Over the past two decades we have seen a steady gentrification [of Leith]’, with the introduction of wider boulevards, a tram line and a plethora of new bars, restaurants and interesting shops,’ writes Katie
Leith was once a separate entity from Edinburgh. The Leithers were fiercely independent and rejected amalgamation in a referendum in 1920. And although they were forced to merge, their civic pride and sense of identity is clearly visible.
Leith Theatre is a shining example. An Art Deco building that closed in 1988, it has now been revived by the Leith Theatre Trust as a vibrant cultural space, hosting concerts and art exhibitions.
The Leith Arches, once part of the Caledonian Railway, have been transformed into an atmospheric location on several levels. Regular markets are held here, as well as theatre performances and yoga sessions.
The Port of Leith Distillery, seen here, is Scotland’s first vertically-mounted distillery. Tours are available to visitors.
The Royal Yacht Britannia (pictured), Leith’s ‘major attraction’, was in service from 1954 to 1997, with Queen Elizabeth II taking numerous trips on the ship
This is an ideal spot for an early evening drink, with cocktails available and draught beer from the local Campervan Brewery. It’s just a five-minute walk down Leith Walk to Pilot Brewery, whose ‘peach melba sour’ is loved by the locals.
For something a little harder, try the Port of Leith Distillery, which offers tours. And don’t forget the Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith’s star attraction, which was in service from 1954 to 1997, with Queen Elizabeth II making numerous voyages, sometimes accompanied by US presidents including Dwight Eisenhower, Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton.
All just a little more luxurious than scenes from Trainspotting… Leith has risen in the world.
Where to stay: Fingal is a Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) ship that has been converted into a beautiful five-star hotel with elegant rooms and an award-winning restaurant.
Double rooms from £300 (fingal.co.uk). More info: eif.co.uk, edfringe.com.
Katie recommends staying at Fingal, pictured here, a Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) ship converted into a five-star hotel with double rooms from £300