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Ciutadella for under £100 a night: Menorca’s former capital offers pastel-coloured houses, pretty squares and tapas galore

by Jeffrey Beilley
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With a picturesque harbour, Gothic cathedral, beautiful mansions and courtyards, Ciutadella, the former capital of Menorca, is an excellent base from which to explore the island.

Narrow alleys of honey-coloured houses lead from the main square with its striking obelisk – a memorial to the Turkish invasion of the city in the 16th century. There is an abundance of boutiques and specialist shops selling local crafts and produce.

Where to stay

Hotel Nou Sant Antoni

This six-bedroom boutique hotel is set in a medieval manor house in the heart of the Old Town, close to craft shops and street cafes. Crisp white rooms with taupe soft furnishings, original sandstone arches and modern bathrooms. B&B double rooms from £54 (hotelboutiquesantantoni.com).

Wendy Green shares her budget travel guide to Ciutadella, the former capital of Menorca, including where to stay, what to do, where to eat and how to get there. Wendy thinks it's a 'great base from which to explore the island'

Wendy Green shares her budget travel guide to Ciutadella, the former capital of Menorca, including where to stay, what to do, where to eat and how to get there. Wendy thinks it’s a ‘great base from which to explore the island’

Wendy says: 'The central square, Placa d'es Born, surrounded by historic buildings such as the old castle which is now the town hall (above) and the baroque church of Sant Francesc, is a great place to stop for a while'

Wendy says: ‘The central square, Placa d’es Born, surrounded by historic buildings such as the old castle which is now the town hall (above) and the baroque church of Sant Francesc, is a great place to stop for a while’

Nao Catedral Boutique Hotel

Rooms at this nautical-themed hotel in an old house next to Santa Maria Cathedral have white walls with wooden fixtures and fittings. The ‘captain’s cabin’ has a private terrace with views over the cathedral, the historic centre and the coast. There is automated check-in for advance and on-site bookings, welcome snacks and a self-service bar. Double rooms from £48 (hotelnaocatedral.com).

Smoix hotel

Close to the historic centre, this five-bedroom boutique hotel set in a former shoe factory offers a mix of modern, rustic and industrial styles. The Smoix restaurant, which recently won the Michelin Bib Gourmand for exceptionally good food at moderate prices, serves Spanish and Catalan dishes. B&B double rooms from £98 (smoix.com).

Seth Port Ciutadella

This refurbished hotel has a great location overlooking the sea, just a 10-minute walk from the historic centre and a 20-minute walk along the promenade to the harbour. There are 94 spacious rooms with a beige and terracotta colour scheme. Facilities include an outdoor pool and a spa. B&B double rooms from £99 (sethotels.com).

What to see and do

'Narrow alleys lined with honey-coloured houses lead to the central square with its striking obelisk (pictured above) – a memorial to the Turkish invasion of the city in the 16th century,' describes Wendy

‘Narrow alleys lined with honey-coloured houses lead to the central square with its striking obelisk (pictured above) – a memorial to the Turkish invasion of the city in the 16th century,’ describes Wendy

Go to the hub

The central square, Placa d’es Born, lined with historic buildings such as the old castle which is now the town hall and the Baroque church of Sant Francesc, is a great place to stop for a coffee or some tapas before setting out to explore the area (visitmenorca.com).

Admire old buildings

A short walk from Placa d’es Born is the 14th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria, with its Gothic vaulted ceilings and colourful stained glass windows. The £6 entrance fee includes entry to the nearby Baroque Monastery of Sant Agusti, which houses a museum with archaeological and natural history exhibits. Don’t miss the pastel-coloured frescoes and lush green courtyard.

Then, see how Ciutadella’s aristocrats lived at the nearby Palacio Olivar, a grand 17th-century mansion with murals, crystal chandeliers, antique furniture, a wine cellar and stables. Admission £4 (illesbalears.travel).

Ciutadella, pictured here, has 'tapas galore', says the travel writer, as well as palatial mansions, piazzas and churches

Ciutadella, pictured here, has ‘tapas galore’, says the travel writer, as well as palatial mansions, piazzas and churches

Taste local specialties

No trip to Ciutadella would be complete without a visit to the specialty shops. Here you will find Mahon cheese with its distinctive salty taste, said to come from the sea breeze blowing over the grass where the cows graze.

Other products include sobrasada (spreadable sausage with paprika spices), local jamons (hams) and goat cheese marinated in red wine.

Wine lovers can sample Menorcan wines such as Binifadet and Merluzo, known for their subtle hints of the island’s herbs, minerals and salty breezes. Gin lovers might opt ​​for Mahon Xoriguer gin, known for its spicy and citrusy flavours.

Come to the harbor

Head down the steps from the main square to the yacht-lined marina. Stop at one of the seafood restaurants for local specialties such as caldereta de langosta, a succulent lobster stew, while enjoying the sea views.

Where to eat

Spicy

Most restaurants in the city offer a meat or fish-based menu, but this place has plenty of plant-based options too, including a tasty Japanese poke bowl with rice, avocado, cucumber, red cabbage, radishes, grated carrot, sesame seeds and soy sauce. A generous salad, poke bowl, veggie burger or chicken salad ciabatta to eat in or take away costs £7.70 (en.piqniq.es).

Cas Consol

Centrally located in Placa d’es Born, this restaurant offers reasonably priced Mediterranean cuisine and a terrace with sweeping views over the harbour. There’s a delicious goat’s cheese, pear and walnut salad with strawberry vinaigrette for £9, while slow-cooked cod in olive oil is £17.60 (casconsolmenorca.com).

Of Ciutadella's marina, pictured here, Wendy says: 'Stop by one of the seafood restaurants for local specialities such as caldereta de langosta, a succulent lobster stew, while enjoying the sea views'

Of Ciutadella’s marina, pictured here, Wendy says: ‘Stop by one of the seafood restaurants for local specialities such as caldereta de langosta, a succulent lobster stew, while enjoying the sea views’

Maramao Tapas Bar

This small bar near the cathedral offers a wide selection of gourmet tapas, ranging from pan tomate y sal Maldon (toasted bread with tomato, olive oil and Maldon salt) for £2.60 to lemon cheese bread with Cantabrico anchovies for £6.90. Finish with a tarta del dia (cake of the day) for £4.70 and a glass of wine for £2.40 (maramaomenorca.com).

Cuk-cuk Restaurant

A show cooking restaurant with a twist. Enjoy a glass of wine as you watch a chef prepare your meal. Or learn how to make authentic Menorcan dishes such as seafood paella or Caldereta — Menorcan fish and shellfish stew — before sitting down to enjoy the results. The Cook and Eat experience costs £30-£36 per person and includes a glass of wine or vermouth (cuk-cuk.com).

How to get there

Easyjet has return flights from Gatwick to Menorca from £75 (easyjet.com). Take bus line 10 (bus.e-torres.net) from the airport to Mahon bus station and then take a bus of Line 01 Mao-Ciutadella to Ciutadella.

At the harbor Wendy suggests: 'Go down the stairs from the central square to the marina with yachts (pictured)'

At the harbor Wendy suggests: ‘Go down the stairs from the central square to the marina with yachts (pictured)’

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