Everyone raves about retinol, but my skin glows thanks to a homemade juice
What are the new retinol rules?
The EU has passed new legislation limiting the amount of retinol that can be used in ready-to-use skin care.
Facial and hand products may contain no more than 0.3% retinol, while body products are limited to just 0.05% (both less than 1%).
Anything stronger will be phased out from the end of this year, with a grace period of three years.
If you’re wondering why this will affect us after Brexit, it’s because Britain chooses to follow a lot of EU law.
Has retinol suddenly been exposed as dangerous?
No, the new rules are intended to reduce the known risk of overexposure to vitamin A, of which retinol is a derivative.
“Vitamin A is essential for things like immunity, skin health and vision, but too much can lead to toxicity and problems like osteoporosis and liver damage,” says Dr. Priya Verma, a general practitioner and aesthetic physician at The Phi Clinic.
“It is important to note that food and supplements are by far the most important sources of vitamin A, while the amount absorbed through skin care is much lower.
“The new rules look at a ‘worst case’ approach: the minority of people who already consume excess vitamin A and who increase their exposure through excessive overuse of topical retinol.
“If you used a retinol with more than 0.3% from a reputable brand and followed the directions, it is extremely unlikely are cause for concern.”
Will my retinol products be less effective in the future?
“Not at all,” says Dr. Shotter.
“For many people, 0.3% is a good, effective concentration.” adds Dr. Halliley.
“Even lower concentrations can be very effective. Efficacy depends not only on the potency of a retinol product, but also on the way it is formulated, the ingredients it is combined with, and how it is absorbed.
Formulations above 0.3% will still be available by prescription. “
If you need these higher levels for skin conditions such as acne, consult a professional.
You can also consider ‘dermatology to your door’ services such as GetHarley.com and And Begin, which can prescribe suitable retinoids through online consultation.
These six super vitamin A products already meet the new regulations
No7 pure retinol, vitamin C and SPF 30 day cream, £39.95
A 0.1% slow-release retinol: good for newbies and ensures you’re wearing essential SPF.
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, £7.40
A very accessible way to try retinol.
Skinsense 0.3% Retinol Serum, £39
A double-encapsulated delivery system drips the new maximum power into the skin.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal, from £45
Fast-acting, in different strengths and, like all retinals, is not affected by the new rules.
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Nightly Pro, £60
Granactive retinoid (also known as HPR) plus niacinamide and bakuchiol for potency without irritation.
And start with serum in a cream, £39.99
Provides prescription tretinoin, at a level chosen for you through an online dermatology consultation.
