Fowey has a cruise for you! In the historic Cornish seaside town where the locals happily welcome huge cruise ships (doubling the population)

Although no one would call it a sight to behold, it was nevertheless a mesmerising sight: a ten-storey ocean liner the size of a block of flats, amid the yachts and fishing boats in a historic little Cornish harbour.

That was the sight the residents of Fowey saw when they opened the curtains on Saturday morning.

Shortly afterwards, the 1,250 (mainly German) passengers aboard the 58,000 ton Portuguese registered ship, Vasco da Gama, were taken ashore to enjoy Cornwall for a while. In the blink of an eye, the local population increased by 50 percent.

However, no complaints were received by the port authorities.

The locals indeed seemed happy to see the cruise passengers, as I discovered for myself when I arrived in Fowey that same day.

The Charm of Cornwall: Robert Hardman visits Fowey, seen here, a ‘historic’ Cornish seaside town where residents seem ‘happy’ to welcome international cruise ships

Giant arrival: Robert watches as ‘passengers aboard the 58,000-ton Portuguese ship Vasco da Gama (pictured) are taken ashore to enjoy a bit of Cornwall’

This wasn’t the first time a cruise ship had backed into the city (there’s not enough room to turn around, so these things are towed backwards). But it was a rare occurrence, and the ship was out by the next tide.

Fowey still talks about the day another monster, Saga Cruises’ 60,000-ton Spirit of Adventure, visited last September.

The big ships are good for local trade. It is true that some passengers hop straight on a bus to the Eden Project and buy only a fridge magnet before hopping back on board for the all-you-can-eat buffet.

However, high port charges are levied and Fowey is attracting increasing numbers of tourists as tourists come from far and wide for the spectacle and drama.

Robert says the town ‘manages to feel timeless and charming without being saccharine or artificial’ and has ‘a thriving jumble of period cottages, houses and shops – including several first-class bakeries’. Pictured here is the quayside

‘Fowey has both soul and substance,’ says Robert. ‘Daphne du Maurier wrote her books here.’ The author’s cottage (with blue shutters) is on the right of the photo.

I highly recommend a visit. Unlike some Cornish stalwarts, Fowey has both soul and substance. Daphne du Maurier wrote her books here (check out the pretty cottage next to the Bodinnick ferry) and still has family in Fowey.

The deep-water harbour not only accommodates ships such as the Vasco da Gama, but is also still a working port from which Cornish china clay is exported all over the world.

Fowey was also a D-Day hub. It has a thriving warren of period cottages, houses and shops – including several first-class bakeries – plus boats, boats and more boats.

There are a few traditional hotels right on the water and some enchanting cottages and apartments.

I stayed at Marners Rock. The outside is full of Cornish charm, but inside the hotel is stylish and has all the comforts you could wish for.

This image shows Fowey’s charming harbour. Robert says: ‘There are a handful of traditional hotels right on the waterfront and some charming holiday cottages and apartments’

Robert notes: ‘Just around the corner, at places like Lantic Bay (above), there are many beautiful, quiet beaches’

Around the corner, in places like Lantic Bay, there are many beautiful, quiet beaches. The really big event this month wasn’t the cruise ship, but this week’s annual regatta. Fowey is decked out in flags, while there are bands, fireworks, a carnival and a procession through the streets, including the world’s largest Cornish pasty.

It feels timeless and charming, without being cloying or artificial – and friendly too.

As the Vasco da Gama weighed her huge anchors and crept out to sea on Saturday evening, locals lined the Esplanade to wave – and the Royal Fowey Yacht Club honked its horn in a fond farewell.