Great British getaways: in charming Carmarthenshire – with a visit to one of the most haunted places in Wales
When Rhodri the Great built Castell Dinefwr as a defense against the Vikings in the ninth century, he brought with him distinctive long-horned, white-coated cattle to support his livelihood.
Rhodri, who was laying the foundations of Wales, probably never suspected that this ancient breed known as White Park would survive the age of the kings.
Although that is the case. At the foot of the castle, near the town of Llandeilo, a herd of twenty grazes near the visitors’ café at Newton House. A living memory of the former ruler.
This Grade II listed country house from 1660 is now owned by the National Trust and it is a remarkable building.
Newton is considered one of the most haunted places in Wales, and TV crews regularly visit in the hope of filming paranormal activity (following rumors of voices and smells coming from empty rooms starting in the 1980s).
Nothing to report about our visit – although it is interesting to see the Second World War exhibition and the property’s impressive art collection, including a portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, who parted ways with France in 1561.
Dinefwr is not the only castle in the area. Carreg Cennen Castle overlooks miles of unspoilt countryside from its own hilltop, six miles away.
This is hidden from view when we visit in the evening to take advantage of the Dark Skies Reserve status and enjoy a bottle of hot chocolate under the stars.
Laura travels to Llandeilo in South Wales, where ‘a strip of pastel-coloured houses leads into the market town from a stone bridge over the River Towy’ (above)
Laura visits Castell Dinefwr (above), built in the ninth century
Rhodri the Great ‘brought distinctive long-horned, white-coated cattle for subsistence’ to Castell Dinefwr in the ninth century and ‘probably never suspected that this ancient breed known as White Park would survive the age of the kings’
Llandeilo, where we stay, has approximately 1,800 inhabitants.
A strip of pastel-coloured houses leads into the market town from a stone bridge over the River Towy. The main street is home to boutiques, craft shops and galleries showcasing local art.
We stop for lunch at the Cawdor Arms, which according to locals serves the best Welsh lamb in Carmarthenshire. Another attraction is just outside the city at Dolaucothi, the only known Roman gold mine in Britain.
Here you can participate in underground tours three days a week.
A hollowed out area in the yard was once a huge open pit where the Romans may have used slave labor from the area to dig for gold. There is also a walking trail.
Via a forest path you follow a stream and hear the sound of dripping water and occasionally the drumming of large spotted woodpeckers.
It is a beautiful sight, just like Rhodri’s cattle in his old castle. The past feels close in this charming corner of Carmarthenshire.
WHERE TO STAY: Doubles at The Cawdor in Llandeilo from £115 B&B (thecawdor.com). Sixt rents cars/minivans from £36 per day (sixt.co.uk).
Grade II listed Newton House ‘considered one of the most haunted places in Wales’ (above)
Carreg Cennen Castle (pictured above) ‘overlooks miles of unspoilt countryside from its own hilltop’