How to find peace on the party island: Koh Phangan in Thailand has much more to offer than dancing until the small hours

Dozing under a palm tree, the sound of a ceremonial drum beat breaks the silence as a speedboat with a few new guests comes ashore.

It doesn’t take long before they disembark and soon afterwards peace returns. I take a sip of my fresh coconut water and exhale.

It’s hard to believe I’m on Koh Phangan, the Thai party island infamous for its raucous backpacker rite of passage: full moon parties.

Once a month, the island welcomes as many as 30,000 tourists, ready to party from sunset to sunrise on the golden sands of Haad Rin on the island’s southeastern peninsula.

Covered in neon paint, partygoers slurp from alcohol-filled buckets and jump over flaming ropes as they dance on the beach. But here on the northeast coast, there’s not a wild-eyed backpacker or a booming sound system in sight. The only clues to Koh Phangan’s boisterous side are party posters tied to the occasional palm tree.

Lauren Probert explores the quieter north side of Thailand’s Koh Phangan. She says: ‘This is anything but backpacker style’

But surrounded by lush jungle, the five-star Anantara Rasananda hotel, where I am staying, is a secluded oasis.

The resort is situated on the white sands of Thong Nai Pan Noi beach, at the end of a small village of the same name, where therapists station themselves outside the salons to dish out £6.50 massages and tourists in and out of stylish coffee shops and the local art gallery.

This is far from a backpacker style. The friendly hotel team greets us (me and my fiancé Josh) with a refreshing cold towel and a warm smile. Our ‘personal host’ Kae is on hand for anything we need, such as booking restaurants and taxis.

Lauren checks in at Anantara Rasananda (seen here), located on the white sands of Thong Nai Pan Noi Beach

Lauren says Anantara Rasananda’s rooms are “decadent.” Pictured here is an Ocean Pool Suite

Rooms are decadent. Our room faces the ocean and features an indoor/outdoor shower, private plunge pool and bamboo, rattan and palm tree furnishings. Other guests are mainly couples, a mix of old and young, and a few families (although thankfully there is a dedicated adults-only pool).

You will not find a hotel disco or children’s entertainment here. This resort is all about peace, serenity and dining with sand between your toes.

Away from Rasananda, a sense of calm prevails. As we hop between bars with bean bags and hammocks, we notice that most places on this side of the island close early. In these parts, many restaurants are so relaxed and homely that you are required to leave your shoes at the door.

Above this lies the uninhabited island of Koh Ma. Lauren notes that at low tide you can walk along a sandy strip to the island

The locals are happy that Koh Phangan – located on the Gulf of Thailand – is slowly shaking off its party image.

“The full moon parties are especially popular with young people,” says our waiter as he serves us drinks while we lie on beach beds. ‘They move to the south of the island and usually stay there. People come here to relax and enjoy the beautiful beaches and calm seas.’

Mae Haad Beach, on the northwest side of the island, is a good place for swimming and snorkeling. Here the beach ends with a sandbar that connects to the small, uninhabited island of Koh Ma, which you can walk to at low tide.

Lauren (pictured) says there is a ‘sense of calm’ in the north of Koh Phangan

We arrived there by traditional, colorful sloop, a half-hour journey across the blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand, enjoying beautiful views of the remote Bottle Beach along the way. At Mae Haad the sea is warm and beneath the surface you are treated to an abundance of patterned coral and small, glittering fish.

Back at the hotel, two-hour Thai cooking classes are offered. These are held in an outdoor kitchen under the supervision of Chef Yadfa, who talks you through the essential Thai herbs and spices: lemongrass, galangal, chili and kaffir lime leaves.

You will learn how to prepare a Thai fish cake, a massaman curry and tom kha gai, a coconut chicken soup. Then you may devour the glorious fate.

However, cooking is a humbling experience. Despite my best efforts, my cutting is haphazard and the presentation leaves much to be desired.

The rest of our days are spent relaxing – enjoying lazy lunches on the beach, swimming and kayaking to the local bay to watch the sun slowly sink into the watery horizon.

It turns out that Thailand’s famous party island might just be the most relaxing island.