I’m a train expert: here are seven of the best sleeper services in Europe, from Cornwall to Venice
Agatha Christie once said, “Trains are wonderful.” Certainly, they were useful to her and were the inspiration for Murder On The Orient Express.
She knew all about the mystique of traveling on a night train, which is the setting for the BBC drama Nightsleeper, especially during a chaotic, madcap journey from Glasgow to London.
But you don’t have to experience similar accidents. Just go to bed in one place and wake up in another.
Here’s how to enjoy some of Europe’s best routes.
CZECH IT OUT: BRUSSELS TO PRAGUE
The European Sleeper runs three times a week between Brussels (photo) and Prague
Tom says: ‘The operator’s motto is ‘The Good Night Train’ and the emphasis is on comfort with beds with duvets and quality linen.’ Above you see one of the ‘cheaper couchettes’ of the train
European Sleeper is a Belgian-Dutch cooperative launched last year that now operates trains between Brussels and Prague three times a week, with stops in Antwerp, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Berlin and Dresden. The carrier’s motto is ‘The Good Night Train’ and the emphasis is on comfort with beds with duvets and quality linen. You get a bottle of water and a continental breakfast with a hot drink. There are also sinks, but toilets are located along the corridor.
The carriages are sleek, made of fluted stainless steel; originally from the US in the 1950s. Three-level bunk bed compartments can be booked privately for 1-3 people, or there are cheaper couchettes for 5-6 people. Take a Eurostar London-Brussels for the onward journey. Or join Rotterdam after taking the ferry to Hoek van Holland.
Dining car: Yes, but not on all services. Three-course menu such as pumpkin soup, schnitzel and cheesecake € 27. Reservations required.
Best thing: Romantic vintage carriages.
times: Departure from Brussels at 7:22 PM, arrival in Prague at 10:56 AM: 15 hours and 34 minutes, covering approximately 1000 kilometers.
How to do it: Sleeping compartment for two from £350; or £132pp sharing a six-berth couchette (Europeansleeper.eu).
CALEDONIAN SLEEPER: LONDON TO SCOTLAND
Enjoy the beautiful highland scenery on the Caledonian Sleeper train, which runs between London and Scotland
Single fares are from £310 for two in a ‘Classic’ compartment or £350 for two in a ‘Club’ compartment with bunk beds
This runs between London Euston and Fort William, Inverness, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen (with other stops).
A single ticket costs from £310 for two in a ‘Classic’ compartment or £350 for two in a ‘Club’ compartment with a bunk bed (from £425 for two in a double compartment).
Trains run daily in each direction, departing between 7:50 PM and 11:45 PM, depending on the route, and arriving between 7:07 AM and 9:57 AM. There is a beautiful highland landscape (sleeper.scot).
ROMANIA’S ROLE: BUDAPEST TO BUCHAREST
The Carpathians (above) are a highlight on the Ister sleeper train between Budapest and Bucharest
For an intriguing ride from the Hungarian capital to the Romanian capital, board the Ister sleeper train. ‘Ister’ is Roman for Danube, and this journey heads towards the Black Sea.
Budapest Keleti Station has an ornate facade with a prominent statue of our railway pioneer George Stephenson. Don’t expect anything special on board the Caile Ferate Romane trains: the compartments are sparse with faux wood paneling and narrow beds with duvets. A sink is hidden under a folding table.
The highlight is admiring the landscape of the Carpathians between Brasov and Bucharest, according to railway guru Mark Smith of Seat61.com.
Dining car: No. However, there is a sandwich kiosk/bar where you can buy sandwiches (£1.70), wine (£2.50) or beer (£2.90).
times: Departure from Budapest at 7:10 PM, arriving in Bucharest at 11:30 AM: 11 hours and 20 minutes, covering approximately 800 kilometers.
How to do it: Sleeping cabin for two from €146, or €40 sharing a sofa bed with six berths (bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro); deploys ‘Bucuresti’ for Bucharest.
NORWEGIAN NIGHTS: TRONDHEIM TO BODO
For an enjoyable trip at any time of year, take the SJ Norge night train between Trondheim (pictured) and Bodo, Norway
This is a particularly good summer ride when it is light until the early morning hours and you can watch the Norwegian fjords and mountains pass by. But the trip is enjoyable at any time of the year.
A daily sleeper is operated by SJ Norge, with standard seats, ‘Premium Plus rest seats’ (with more backrest) and sleeping compartments. The latter are equipped with two single beds with good quality bed linen, bottled water and sinks; toilets are located in the hallway. You also get free coffee/tea.
Trondheim is an elegant city on a fjord, while Bodo is a smaller city with a thriving arts scene. Both are great for the Northern Lights.
Dining car: Yes, a café serves light meals such as salmon and potato salad (£13) or pizzas (£12). But beware: wine costs £10, a beer £9 per glass.
times: Departure from Trondheim at 11:05 PM, arriving in Bodo at 9:05 AM: ten hours, covering approximately 700 kilometers.
How to do it: Sleeping compartments from €144, Premium Plus from €82, standard from €60 (sj.no).
NIGHT RIVIERA: LONDON TO CORNWALL
‘The Night Riviera is a brilliant way to drive into Cornwall with stops at Liskeard, Par, St Austell, Truro and St Erth (before St Ives)’ says Tom from the GWR service, pictured above
A light breakfast is included in the price of a Night Riviera coupe (left), which Tom says ‘come with beds with good linen’. The train also has a lounge car with snacks and drinks (right)
Departing Paddington at 10:30pm and arriving in Penzance at 7:54am – or 9:15pm or 9:45pm in the opposite direction, arriving at 6:45am – the Night Riviera is a brilliant way to drive into Cornwall with stops at Liskeard, Par, St Austell, Truro and St Erth (for St Ives).
A light breakfast (bacon sandwich or cereal) is included in the compartments, which have beds with good linen. There is also a lounge car with snacks and drinks. Use of the station lounge is included. Compartments from £166 for two (gwr.com).
THE ITALIAN JOB: MILAN TO SICILY
Tom says: ‘The overnight journey from Milan to Palermo is known as the Intercity Notte.’ Above – Palermo
You may be wondering how a train crosses the Strait of Messina from mainland Italy to Sicily. The answer is: by train ferry.
This sleeper journey from Milan to Palermo (although a shorter version is possible from Rome) is known as the Intercity Notte, with compartments for 1-3 passengers, plus couchettes for up to six people. The ‘Superior’ compartments have small rooms with private bathrooms, while the cheaper ‘Relax’ compartments have sinks only. A continental breakfast and a hot drink are served. Expect amazing coastal scenery.
Dining car: No. But there is a refreshment cart and food vending machines.
times: Departure from Milan at 8:10 PM, arriving in Palermo at 4:55 PM: 20 hours and 45 minutes, covering approximately 970 miles.
How to do it: ‘Relax’ sleeper compartments for two from £215; couchettes from £60pp (trenitalia.com).
NIGHTJET EXPRESS: VIENNA TO VENICE
Everyone aboard: the Nightjet train will take you to Vienna and Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Berlin overnight
Sleeping compartments, as shown here, offer ‘maximum coziness’, says Austrian Railways (OBB)
LEFT: Travelers can purchase drinks and snacks on Nightjet trains. RIGHT: A private bathroom on the Nightjet train
The Austrian Federal Railways (OBB) has given other national railway companies in Europe a head start by investing heavily in a fleet of Nightjet sleeper trains. You can travel between Vienna and Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Berlin, among others, although a popular ‘classic’ is between the two Vs: Vienna and Venice.
Sleeping compartments offer ‘maximum coziness’, according to OBB. Upon arrival you will receive a complimentary glass of sparkling wine and a breakfast of hot drinks and a selection of ham and cheese. This is an excellent way to cross the Alps into Italy.
Dining car: Yes, and food can be ordered. Paprika chicken (£11), glass of wine (£3), beer (£3).
times: Departure from Vienna at 9:39 PM, arriving in Venice at 8:34 AM: ten hours and 55 minutes, covering approximately 560 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper from £300 for two; or couchette from £100pp (oobb.at).
