Immerse yourself in divine St Ives: whitewashed cottages, turquoise seas and a unique golden light – it’s easy to see why this Cornish town is a haven for artists

The small Cornish seaside town of St Ives has become a world-famous artistic hotspot.

Traditionally, fishing was the main source of income, and visitors would often find a busy harbour full of boats catching mackerel, sardines and herring.

Fishing is still going on, but to a lesser extent. Today, some 600,000 tourists come annually, many of them for the culture.

How did it all begin? The answer has to do with two key local ingredients: beautiful scenery, plus a remarkable clarity of golden local light.

JMW Turner was the first major artist to be hired (in 1811), and many others followed in the 19th century, including Walter Sickert and James Whistler.

Cornish cream: Sara Lawrence explores St Ives and its vibrant art scene. Above, a view of Porthmeor beach, near Tate St Ives

Sara says artists have been drawn to St Ives for decades because of the ‘beautiful scenery, plus a remarkable clarity of the local golden light’

When the fishing industry began to dry up at the end of the century, new railway lines attracted even more donkey- and chisel-wielding visitors, including British ceramicist Bernard Leach and his Japanese friend Shoji Hamada (who founded the iconic Leach Pottery in 1920), plus sculptor Barbara Hepworth.

In the 1950s a new generation of avant-garde artists emerged, forming the St Ives School. This school became an important development in British art.

The cultural importance of St Ives was confirmed when the Tate opened a west branch in 1993. Standing proudly on the cliffs above Porthmeor Beach and overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the gallery is dramatic, alluring and a must-see; the latest exhibition is ‘Maresias’ by Beatriz Milhazes, a Brazilian abstract painter. Maresias means ‘salty sea breeze’ and Milhazes wanted to show her colourful, nature-inspired work by the same ocean as her home in Rio de Janeiro.

‘Between brisk coastal walks – and perhaps a dip in the sea at one of the many nearby sandy beaches – there’s plenty of art to see during a visit,’ says Sara. Above – Bamaluz Beach in St Ives

The Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden at Trewyn Studio is one of over 40 art spaces in the city. Sculptures in bronze and stone fill the subtropical garden, as pictured here

In addition, there is an exhibition of the abstract works of Mark Rothko; the American visited St Ives in 1959.

Meanwhile, the permanent collection includes works by contemporary British artists with a link to the area. Between brisk coastal walks – and perhaps a dip in the sea at one of the many nearby sandy beaches – you can take in plenty of art during a visit.

Porthmeor Studios is just across the beach from the Tate. Built on 19th century pilchard cellars, it is now home to the St Ives School of Painting and houses resident artists.

With over 40 art spaces in the city, there’s a lot to see. The Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden is located in Trewyn Studio, where Hepworth lived and worked from 1949 until her tragic death in a fire in 1975.

The Sloop Inn, pictured, is one of the oldest inns in Cornwall, dating back to 1312. ‘It’s a favourite with fishermen, artists and tourists,’ says Sara

The subtropical garden features bronze and stone sculptures, while paintings, drawings and wooden pieces are on display inside.

Up the hill from the cobbled streets of the town centre is Leach Pottery. The original workshops and kiln shed are now a museum and contemporary potters occupy a new studio.

West Cornwall’s foodie scene is also thriving in St Ives. The Porthminster Beach Cafe specialises in sensational seafood with sublime views. The harbourside Sloop Inn is one of the oldest inns in Cornwall, dating back to 1312. It’s a favourite with fishermen, artists – and tourists.

With its whitewashed houses, beaches and turquoise sea – bathed in a romantic golden light – it’s not hard to see why this alluring place inspires so many people.