As the First Lady took the stage at the Commander-in-Chief Ball, one of three inaugural celebrations she attended Monday night, Melania Trump did more than just delight her admirers. She has silenced her critics – and unfortunately there are many of them.
Melania again relied on her old stylist Herve Pierre, although on this occasion he advised her and dressed her to stunning effect in a custom strapless white silk crepe dress with thick bands of black silk gazar trim.
The black and white made for a striking combination. Pierre said it was Melania's choice and showed she was “true to her own style and vision.”
In contrast to stepdaughter Ivanka Trump's flowery exaggeration — she opted for an exact copy of Audrey Hepburn's 1954 Givenchy dress from the film Sabrina — Melania's choice was a subtle tribute to mid-20th century fashion.
However, Melania also reprized Hepburn in a more iconic cinematic role.
Pierre, an admirer of British photographer and costume designer Cecil Beaton, must no doubt have recognized the sartorial possibilities offered by Hepburn's performance in 'My Fair Lady'. That film tells about a resourceful person who becomes a star while wearing white and black couture (an outfit famously designed by Beaton).
Melania's Golden Age of Hollywood look was perfectly completed with a borrowed 1955 diamond flower brooch from American jewelry legend Harry Winston and worn on a choker with black ribbon.
The style of the jewelry, Pierre said, was also reflected in the dress: a ribbon encircling the flowers. (It is believed that Melania was the bouquet).
Melania relied on her long-time stylist Herve Pierre, although on this occasion he both advised her and dressed her to stunning effect in a custom strapless white silk crepe dress with thick straps of black silk gazar trim.
The black and white made for a striking combination. Pierre said it was Melania's choice and showed she was “true to her own style and vision.”
Melania's Golden Age of Hollywood look was perfectly completed with a borrowed 1955 diamond flower brooch from American jewelry legend Harry Winston and worn on a choker with black ribbon.
Unlike stepdaughter Ivanka Trump's florid exaggeration – where she settled for an exact copy of Audrey Hepburn's 1954 Givenchy dress from the film Sabrina (right) – Melania's choice was a subtle tribute to mid-century fashion. the 20th century.
Indeed, the First Lady's sense of legacy was also embodied by the famous jeweler – who was immortalized by Marilyn Monroe when she sang in the song Diamonds are a Girls Best Friend: 'Talk to me, Harry Winston, tell me all about It.'
Winston donated the 'Hope Diamond' – a 45-carat blue dazzle – to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC in 1958. His gift helped the museum build its National Gem collection, but Winston dreamed even bigger. His ultimately unrealized goal was to create a permanent collection of gemstones to be worn by successive first ladies, 'American Queens'.
Winston's third and final attempt to establish this new tradition was rejected by government officials in 1982. They found the concept “contrary to our democratic traditions” and they believed that Americans would be offended by something reminiscent of royal crown jewels.
In this way, Melania and Pierre's tribute to Winston speaks volumes.
Melania sees herself as a legacy builder – with or without help from the fashion world.
The role of couturier-in-chief to the first lady has long been a prized position, and in times gone by, American designers would have lined up to design an inauguration dress.
That does not apply to Melania.
Nearly a decade into her life as presidential consort, she remains a shunned specimen by America's fashion elites.
In 2017, the legendary Ralph Lauren designed Melania's powder blue dress, worn at her husband's first inauguration. No such help came this time.
Melania had to accept that Lauren, who just days earlier became the first fashion designer to ever receive the Presidential Medal of Freedom, this time chose to dress outgoing First Lady Jill Biden in a purple monochromatic ensemble.
Frankly, it's startling treatment from a woman who – despite a physique that's a haute couture dream come true – is now forced to do off-the-shelf shopping. Peirre admits that Melania's money has even been diverted from stores on Madison Avenue that refuse to be associated with the Trump brand.
It is also striking that Melania does not appear to have the support of Vogue impresario and Democratic darling Anna Wintour. Melania, however, seems impervious to such insular snobbery.
Instead, she charts her own course in a manner remarkably similar to that of another first lady she most empathizes with and admires.
In 2017, the legendary Ralph Lauren designed Melania's powder blue dress, worn at her husband's first inauguration. No such help came this time. Melania had to accept that this time Lauren chose to dress outgoing First Lady Jill Biden (photo).
Melania also does not appear to have the support of Vogue impresario and Democratic darling Anna Wintour. The First Lady, however, seems impervious to such insular snobbery.
Herve Pierre's first presidential creation for Melania in 2017 (left) mirrored Oleg Cassini's for Jackie Kennedy in 1961: a sleeveless column dress in white (right).
Like Jackie Kennedy, Melania has been excluded from the showrooms of international haute couture. Jackie's ban was ordered by her husband's political operatives, who preferred her to wear American labels over European competitors, while Melania's exclusion is the result of near-universal disapproval of her husband.
In Jackie's case, she relied on stylist Oleg Cassini. Melania has Hervé Pierre. Both men are trained as couturiers and imbued with a sense of style and history. Their visions are – I believe – transformative.
Pierre's first presidential creation for Melania in 2017 mirrored Cassini's for Jackie in 1961: a sleeveless dress in white.
Ultimately, Pierre's Monday night design will end up in the Smithsonian's collection alongside those two iconic dresses. Winston would be proud.
