Miles of joy on the coast of Mexico with the most: the discovery of another lost Mayan city makes the Yucatan Peninsula even more attractive

The Mayans believed in many gods. They were also highly literate, architecturally advanced, and developed a mathematical system that included one of the earliest examples of zero.

Today, worship in their former heartland of Yucatan – and especially along the Caribbean coast near bustling Cancun, Mexico – is focused on one thing and one lucrative thing only: tourism. Math is all about the bottom line.

Most of the architecture is not exactly subtle, but what an extraordinary stretch of coast it is, almost 100 miles long, punctuated by huge hotels, mainly all-inclusive, sunk into powdery white sand.

It seems to me like a Las Vegas-on-Sea experience with a pinch of Dubai in it. And what makes the whole confection so special is that until the 1970s, the iguanas, egrets and herons virtually had the place to themselves.

My first stop is the all-inclusive Grand Palladium Costa Mujeres Resort & Spa, about half an hour north of Cancun. It is actually three hotels – one especially for families – within the same enormous complex and with almost 1,300 rooms.

There are shops, a theater, artificial lakes, about 20 restaurants, a Roman Catholic chapel, a conference center, a Rafa Nadal tennis center and a large spa.

Most of my fellow guests are Americans. “Where are you all from?” a man wearing a T-shirt that reads “I’m American by choice” asks a group of 40-somethings.

“Chicago,” one of them answers. ‘Great. Let’s meet for a drink, guys.’

While visiting Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, Mark Palmer stays at the all-inclusive Grand Palladium Costa Mujeres Resort & Spa (pictured)

Mark takes a day trip to Tulum (pictured), home to Mayan ruins and natural swimming holes

But where? There are 25 bars spread around the place, and the most popular is the swim-up bar in the adult pool, where standing in the water with a plastic cup is the main activity from noon to 8 p.m.

There is no pool bar about an hour south, toward Tulum, at Chable Maroma. This is a very different proposition, with 70 villas built among the mangrove forest and exotic palms, each cleverly hidden and all bearing Mayan names.

“The mangroves protect us from hurricanes,” says the man who takes me to my accommodation. Along the way we stop at the spa and I am invited to participate in a short Mayan ceremony to banish any lingering negativity.

It involves burning some wood, breathing deeply, and holding my hands out with palms open as if receiving a gift. Which is appropriate, as my two nights here are completely indulgent, aided and abetted by charming staff, delicious food and genuine service.

One morning at breakfast I watch an osprey pluck a fish from the sea and fly past triumphantly.

During the day I swim in the warmest seas and learn from the local biologist about the efforts made to restore the coral on the reef, which is the longest in the world after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.

I’m not supposed to go snorkeling because my ears are bad, but I can’t resist when there’s a chance to explore what lies about 350 meters offshore. It almost feels intrusive when you disturb schools of luminous fish in all colors of the rainbow.

Above, a local girl takes part in the annual Day of the Dead festival

Mark checks into Chable Maroma (seen here), which offers a collection of 70 villas

Divine: the expansive swimming pool of Chable Maroma

Relations between America and Mexico are difficult, especially along the border. The contrast is that as the U.S. federal government tries — and fails — to stem the tide of migrants, traffic the other way from vacationing Americans is becoming increasingly heavy.

On the way to Tulum for a full-day excursion, my expert guide Silvia addresses the growing threat of the Mexican drug cartels, saying, “If you have Americans looking to consume, there will always be people looking for drugs.” It’s 43C (109F) when Silvia and I huddle under her umbrella in front of Tulum’s main castle, built in the early 12th century when the Mayans practiced human sacrifice. Last week, researchers discovered another lost Mayan city, which they named Valeriana, near Calakmul in the interior.

A lot of the seaweed is made in this area, but during my stay it is minimal – and at Chable Maroma it is collected every morning.

Mexico is known for its cenotes – sunken bodies of water – and we stop at Gran Cenote, not far from Tulum. I find it a disappointing experience, although the clear, cool water is immediately refreshing. There are about 8,000 cenotes in this part of the country.

On my last evening at Chable Maroma I eat at Bullo, which is in the Michelin guide.

But first I take a seat at the rooftop Raw Bar and watch the sun set behind the Caribbean Sea. The bartender had told me the night before that his margaritas are the best in the entire Yucatán Peninsula. I’m no expert, but the first slides down effortlessly, the second even more so. Add to that the beautiful surroundings, with a gentle breeze courtesy of swaying palm trees, and I’m not sure how this cocktail of pleasure can be topped.