This hilly, liberal city in Northern California is home to some of the world’s most iconic landmarks, from the Golden Gate Bridge to Alcatraz Island prison.
But despite being home to more billionaires than anywhere else in the US (it’s only a half-hour drive from Silicon Valley), it’s surprisingly affordable, and cheap public transportation makes getting around the city a breeze.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Queen Anne
Antique furnishings can be found in every corner of this charming 19th century Victorian townhouse hotel near Japan Town (queenanne.com). Breakfast and afternoon tea (think sherry and homemade biscuits) are included, and most of the 48 rooms (from £150) have baths and wooden sleigh beds. It’s big on Christmas decorations, so come in November/December for a festive treat.
Here’s our budget travel guide to San Francisco, USA, where you can book top hotels for under £150 a night
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With an abundance of books, board games and TVs, the downstairs lounge-cum-bar of this central hotel is designed to entice guests out of bed. That said, the rooms are funky with pink balloon dogs, red cushions and electronic features (lights, alarm clocks, blinds etc) controlled via an iPad. There’s also a gym and a rooftop terrace.
Prices start at £150 with a buffet breakfast for £16pp Citizenm.com/hotel/sanfrancisco.
Hotel Cartwright
This hilly, liberal city in Northern California is home to some of the world’s most iconic attractions, including the Golden Gate Bridge (above). Bike across it and you might even spot dolphins.
Rooms at this centrally located Best Western hotel (bestwestern.com) may be cramped, but they are clean and comfortable, with powerful showers (from £94). There’s free tea and coffee downstairs, where chess boards and giant Connect 4s are on tables next to the fire. The 1913 building overlooks Union Square, so ask for a room at the back if you don’t want to be disturbed by the pinging of cable cars.
Hotel Garrett
This stylish, no-frills hotel (rooms cost £70 per night)hotelgarrettsf.com) across from the US Federal Building (where Nancy Pelosi has an office) is a steal. The 121 comfortable, recently renovated rooms are well thought out, with plenty of USB ports and coffee makers. The location is good too, a ten-minute walk from Union Square and close to the Opera House, the subway and San Francisco’s historic streetcars.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Boat trip through the bay
The Blue & Gold Fleet offers a 60-minute cruise that starts at Pier 39, where sea lions lounge, and takes you under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz Island (pictured)
The best way to see San Francisco’s hilly skyline is from the sea. The Blue & Gold Fleet offers a 60-minute guided tour. It starts at Pier 39 (where sea lions lounge) and sails under the most photographed bridge in the world, the 1.7-mile-long Golden Gate. Then it circles the prison island of Alcatraz. The strong Pacific currents made it impossible for prisoners to escape… although many tried! (blueandgoldfleet.com)
Cycle onto the bridge
Feel the vibrations of the Golden Gate Bridge as you cycle across it (unlimitedbiking.com/san-francisco). The 11-mile bike tour starts at Ghirardelli Square (home to the oldest chocolate factory in the US) and ends in the beautiful town of Sausalito. Stop on the bridge to watch for dolphins. The bikes are yours all day. Bike back or hop on the ferry.
Historic cable cars
Take the Powell-Hyde cable car up Lombard Street, pictured here, so you can experience the crookedest street in the world
Buy a £12 day tram pass and ride San Francisco’s iconic cable cars up and down the hills as often as you like. Be sure to take the Powell-Hyde line and hop off at Lombard Street so you can walk (or climb) the crookedest street in the world. Then head to the Cable Car Museum (free) to marvel at these vintage trams and their mechanics. They’re the only form of transport that runs on a cable system rather than a motor (cablecarmuseum.org).
Self-driving taxi
San Fran is one of the few places where autonomous taxis are available. Hail one of these robot cars (via an app) and head to the hilltop Coit Tower for a great view of San Fran. But be warned, there is a six-month waiting list for the taxis.
WHERE TO EAT
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Head to Z&Y restaurant in Chinatown (pictured) to try Chef Han’s famous tea-smoked duck
Once you sit down, you’ll realize why this Chinatown restaurant, which doesn’t accept reservations, has such a long line (zandyrestaurant.com). Chef Han (who has cooked for presidents) is famous for his tea-smoked duck (£28), but his vegetables are on a whole other level. Order the dry-fried green beans, stir-fried Chinese cabbage and honey cherry tomatoes, and get a bag for leftovers.
Pizzeria Delfina
This chic Italian restaurant sources its ingredients locally. The owner even has his own farm. The menu includes pizzas and meatballs the size of oranges (£16). Order the butternut squash and Brussels sprouts (both £11 with a spicy kick) and wash them down with the restaurant’s own Californian Chardonnay from Sonoma Valley (pizzeriadelfina.com).
Miller & Lux Steakhouse
Steaks don’t come cheap at this celebrity chef’s restaurant (millerandluxrestaurant.com) in the Mission District, but they’re really good. The melt-in-the-mouth 10oz Filet Mignon in Bordelaise sauce (£62) is big enough for two, and the creamy escalope is a delicious alternative to spinach. Or head to the restaurant’s new Union Square stalls. Their rotisserie chickens and salads make great, cheaper takeaways.
Scomas
Be sure to visit Scoma’s ‘pier to plate’ seafood restaurant, pictured above, which is a favourite with A-listers – Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston have all dined here
Come in daylight (or at sunset) and enjoy the waterfront setting of this seafood restaurant, where you’re whisked from pier to plate. It’s a favorite with A-listers: Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt, and Jennifer Aniston have all dined here (scomas.com). The steaming bowl of Clam Chowder at £9.50 is sufficient for lunch, but if you have room you could also opt for the Combo Louis Salad (loaded with prawns and crab) or the tomato fish stew called the Lazy Man’s Cioppino.
GET THERE
America Your Way (americaasyoulikeit.com/020 8742 8299) offers tailor-made holidays to the USA. A 7-night B&B stay at the Queen Anne Hotel costs from £1,415pp (two people) including return flights from London with Virgin Atlantic. More information: sftravel.com; visitcalifornia.com; citypass.com/san-francisco.
