Steep walks, beautiful towns and tranquil resorts: bask in the true soul of Tenerife

Before we’ve even taken off, a hen party cheerfully makes its presence known on board our Jet2 flight from Manchester. Tenerife’s brash, drunken image is clearly alive and well, standing two rows ahead of us as we make our way to the largest of the Canary Islands.

But after a week of cycling along the coast, gingerly guiding our rental car over hair-raising mountain roads and wandering through unassuming villages, it becomes clear that Tenerife does not deserve such a compliment.

Sure, places like the seaside resort of Playas de las Americas are constantly inundated with Brits roasting their skin lobster pink – and it’s easy to see why, considering that even in winter the average temperature is around 22 degrees Celsius. Plus it’s only a four and a half hour flight.

But we are here to find the authentic soul of the island.

We stay between the coastal villages of San Blas and Los Abrigos in the Barcelo hotel, which seems to be embedded in the steep volcanic landscape of Tenerife. It is a vast low-rise resort, with flowers and plants everywhere and thick cacti growing along winding paths.

Stylish: on the hunt for the ‘hidden’ side of Tenerife, Angela Epstein explores the chic coastal town of Costa Adeje (photo)

As if by osmosis, our fellow guests – many of whom are British – seem to absorb the tranquility. The poolside chatter barely rises above the murmur, otherwise all we hear is the sound of pages turning in Robert Harris’ latest blockbuster.

Just across the road is the hotel’s nature reserve: a moonscape of crusty rock and lava formations sculpted over thousands of years by persistent winds. It is perfect for walking – as many guests do – and is especially atmospheric in the evening, as we discover when we look at the stars with Barcelo’s astronomer.

This is Tenerife nightlife in the most authentic sense.

Imposing: Angela stops in the town of Candelaria, home to the towering Basilica of Our Lady of Candelaria (photo)

Above is one of the nine statues of ancient kings along the sea wall in Candelaria

To explore the area we rent bikes and cycle to banana plantations and along quiet waterside paths, stopping at the small marina of San Blas to catch our breath.

Later in our rental car we discover numerous nature reserves further away, of which the Teide volcano is the most popular. The base is packed with tourists, so although we (eventually) ride the cable car to the lower peak, it’s only for a few obligatory selfies. It’s a relief to escape and take a slow ride through the Teide National Park, which surrounds the summit. It is vast and otherworldly thanks to its spectacular rock formations. It’s no surprise that classic films such as Clash Of The Titans and the original Planet Of The Apes were filmed here.

Discovering hidden Tenerife doesn’t mean we have to be completely anti-social – we just have to explore. In any case, we want to find places where the locals come together.

And those we talk to are warm, welcoming and keen to dispel the stereotype about their beloved island. (“If you want the real Canarios,” says the lady behind the car rental counter, “look in the mountains and villages, not in bars that sell beer.”)

So we explore the coastal town of Candelaria, home to the towering Basilica of Our Lady of Candelaria, which, among its intricate marble work, houses an arresting black Madonna.

Angela takes a slow ride through Teide National Park (seen here). “It’s vast and otherworldly thanks to the spectacular rock formations,” she says

Angela discovers that the university town of La Laguna (pictured) has an ‘abundance of pedestrianized streets, churches and 15th-century architecture’

In Candelaria’s huge central square, locals loiter over ice cream and exchange spirited banter in rapid-fire Spanish (we don’t hear a single English voice). All this takes place under the unfathomable gaze of nine bronze statues – ancient kings of Tenerife – mounted on the sea wall.

On another day we visit the university town of La Laguna, once the capital of Tenerife and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site with an abundance of pedestrian streets, churches and 15th-century architecture. Plus, there are some wonderful cafes (my gluten-intolerant husband almost dies of joy when we find a cafe and bakery completely dedicated to non-wheat products).

Back at sea level there are miles of coastline to enjoy. We stop at the small town of El Medano – a paradise for surfers, boogie boarders and local sun worshipers – and from the beach follow a narrow path through the wetlands for an easy climb to the dormant volcano Montana Roja.

El Medano (seen here) is a ‘haven for surfers, boogie boarders and local sun seekers’, writes Angela

There are parts of busy Tenerife that remain decidedly posh despite the large number of tourists. Not least Costa Adeje, a chic seaside resort on the south coast where the ball is lined with chic cafes and restaurants, while the open market allows the purchase of an array of fake designer handbags.

“This Chanel handbag works so well with your colors, ma’am,” an exhibitor tells me. It’s tempting… but I resist.

After all, this break in Tenerife was about enjoying the genuine article.