The Kasbah rocks back! Sir Richard Branson has rebuilt his hideaway in a Moroccan hotel after last year’s devastating earthquake – and it’s a feast for the senses

Just after 11pm on September 8 last year, Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains were hit by a magnitude 6.8 earthquake – the strongest to hit the North African kingdom in 120 years.

Nearly 3,000 people died, 19,000 homes were destroyed and 60,000 suffered significant damage. The worst effects were in mountain villages, but buildings were felled as far away as 45 miles (72 kilometers) in Marrakech.

Also badly hit was the Kasbah Tamadot, Sir Richard Branson’s boutique hotel at the foot of the High Atlas.

“I’ve seen pretty much everything – hurricanes, fires, earthquakes, disease, you name it,” says Sir Richard. ‘My approach is that the next day I take out a big sheet of paper and plan how we can come back better and stronger than before. As long as you think positively, you can put these things behind you.”

And this is evident when I arrive for the official reopening of this former Berber fortress, which dates from the early 20th century.

Neil Darbyshire attends the official relaunch of Sir Richard Branson’s Moroccan hotel, Kasbah Tamadot (pictured)

The Virgin boss, who is now 74, bought Tamadot in 1998 on behalf of his formidable mother Eve, who fell in love with the place when her son was on one of his balloon adventures in Morocco. “She would have disowned me if I had said no,” he says.

Located on a promontory less than an hour’s drive from Marrakech, the setting is inspired by the Berber people: nomads who came from the Sahara and ruled here before the Arab conquest.

At 1,300 meters above sea level, it’s at a similar altitude to the summit of Ben Nevis, so hardly nosebleed territory. But the air is thin and clean and the temperature a few degrees lower than in Marrakech – a blessing in high summer.

Neil is staying in one of the hotel’s ‘Berber tents’ (seen here). He says they are ‘considerably more opulent and certainly sturdier than anything the Berbers could have imagined’

The tents have sun terraces that “overlook a steep river valley,” writes Neil

Keeping up with Sir Richard is no easy task. As he marches through the Kasbah at a military pace, we are left in his wake. By the time you reach him at one location, he’s already hopping to the next. The main fortress consists of a series of interconnected crenellated towers, built around a square, open courtyard.

There are round Islamic arches, elegant water features and a roof terrace for those who want to dine al fresco.

To the rear are extensive grounds with an infinity pool, two restaurants and plenty of nooks and crannies.

There are secluded Berber tents with sun terraces overlooking a steep river valley, and six traditional riads with three bedrooms, private pools and roof terraces.

Above, Tamadot’s brand new restaurant, Asayss, formerly a cowshed

Neil reveals that Sir Richard bought the property in 1998 on behalf of his mother, Eve

I am billeted in one of the tents, which are considerably more luxurious and certainly sturdier than anything the Berbers could have imagined. It’s a driver and full nine-iron away from the main reception area, so nicely tucked away.

The riads and the impressive Asayss restaurant with high ceilings (formerly a cowshed) have been added since the earthquake. Only the library was irreparable and has been converted into a vaulted courtyard with a reflection pool.

Sir Richard invites a group of us to go cycling with him, but I pull away and take a more leisurely mountain walk with guide, Abdul. We meet in Imlil, a town made up of 12 Berber villages, about a 20-minute drive from Tamadot.

If you look into the valley from an altitude of 2,000 meters, the consequences of the earthquake are still clearly visible. There are obvious gaps where houses once stood. “Only about 60 houses were destroyed here, but almost all of them showed cracks,” says Abdul. “We’re about to get back to normal.”

Imlil is the base for hikers, mountain bikers and climbers. From here we can see the upper slopes of Mount Toubkal, at 4,000 metres, the highest peak in North Africa. If you have three days to spare and some climbing experience, Abdul will guide you to the top.

Sir Richard, of course, scaled it up. After all, he has looked down on Everest from a hot air balloon, searched the deep ocean trenches and traveled to the edge of space by rocket.

But Tamadot is his passion project, and Eve Branson, who died of Covid-19 complications during the pandemic, loved the place. Her influence is still evident today: she founded local schools to teach English and crafts such as weaving and embroidery, providing skills and employment.

Neil pictured above with Sir Richard, who is said to consider the hotel his ‘passion project’

Tamadot isn’t cheap, and there isn’t much to do outside if you don’t like walking or cycling. But two or three nights of pampered luxury in a wider holiday to Marrakech and perhaps Essaouira, three hours away on the coast, would be a real treat.

Sir Richard was one of the first to arrive after the earthquake and provided tents, food, water and other aid to the affected villages.

“I consider this community family,” he says. It turns out – and his mother would be happy about it.

It is a big drama in the High Atlas

The Moroccan village of Ait Ben-Haddou once made its money trading salt. Today, much of the revenue comes from blockbuster films shot within the country’s walls.

Both the original Gladiator and Gladiator 2 – which is released in UK cinemas this week – were filmed here after an arena was built using traditional mud bricks to blend in with the existing architecture.

But Ait Ben-Haddou, a 30-minute drive from the city of Ouarzazate, is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Upon entering there is an intricate maze of alleys, with shops selling the same kind of merchandise as in the souks of Marrakech. These stand side by side with traditional houses and stalls where animals are housed.

It’s not just Gladiator that was filmed here. Scenes from Lawrence Of Arabia, Game Of Thrones and The Mummy also show the earthen buildings and streets. My guide Mohammed is working as an extra when the film crew arrives, and during a quick tour of his home he proudly shows off the sword and shield he brandished in Game Of Thrones.

Hollywood Hills: The Moroccan village of Ait Ben-Haddou (seen here) was used as a filming location for Gladiator and Gladiator 2

Ouarzazate itself is known locally as Ouarzawood because it is home to one of the largest film studios in the world: the Atlas Studios. Opened in 1983, the studio thrived and has since welcomed the great and the good of Hollywood, including Samuel L. Jackson, Brad Pitt, Nicole Kidman and Leonardo DiCaprio.

Many tourists make the four-hour drive here from Marrakech, but I flew direct to Ouarzazate as part of a week-long journey along the traditional caravan route to the Sahara.

I’m leaving the movie world behind and heading out of town to Fint Oasis.

Even during the height of the summer drought, this tranquil, lush spot has waterholes in the tree-lined riverbed, where local women wash their clothes before drying them on the bushes.

Above, Paul Mescal in Gladiator 2, which hits UK cinemas this week

Further on I reach the impressive Todra Gorge, a series of limestone river gorges with steep cliffs rising to almost 300 metres, and that evening I reach Merzouga, the gateway to the Sahara, where I stay at Riad Serai.

This large sea of ​​dunes is formed by blowing sand, and in the distance I can just make out a silhouette of camels with riders. The next day a 4×4 takes me deeper into the desert for a night in a luxury camp.

Along the way we stop and look for fossils – and within minutes I find an ammonite. Then, arriving at camp, I am greeted with Moroccan mint tea and taken to my tent – ​​with air conditioning, a bath and a comfortable bed.

As we sit around the fire pit listening to traditional live music, I wander off and lie on my back staring up at the night sky. I’m told there’s a good chance I’ll see a meteor – and minutes later a shooting star follows a path directly above it.

Film directors from Ait Ben-Haddou would do anything to capture this spectacle, but for now it’s all mine.

By Sarah Veness