The seven tricks to banish grays – and make salon colors last longer, by royal hairdresser RICHARD WARD
The sun is shining, the birds are tweeting… and those gray hairs glow like a halo in the bright spring light, sending many of us running to the salon.
But the monthly visits to keep our roots in check aren’t cheap – so how can we extend the time between visits?
From cold showers to mascara for our roots, celebrity hairdresser Richard Ward, whose salon includes the Princess of Wales, shares his tips.
Be wary of red
Are you toying with the idea of becoming a fiery redhead? Be warned. ‘Artificial reds fade much faster,’ says Richard.
This is because the molecules that make up the red pigment are larger than other color molecules, so it cannot penetrate as deeply, making it easier to wash out.
If you go a lot darker than your natural shade, you can also expect fading.
For blondes, the longevity of your color depends on how the color is achieved. ‘If you’ve used bleach, your color is less likely to fade as it lifts the pigment and doesn’t necessarily set it. But over time it can discolour or become duller and is more susceptible to damage,” says Richard.
You need to think about how much maintenance you’re willing to accept when you get your hair colored, says Richard Ward
Keep a low profile
Choose a hair color technique that suits your lifestyle and budget.
“You have to consider how much maintenance you are willing to accept,” says Richard. ‘For example, if you have very dark hair and you go for blonde highlights, you will quickly see regrowth. If you don’t have the money or time for regular salon visits, you may want to consider a different approach.’
For low-maintenance looks, he recommends techniques like balayage, where the color fades naturally from mid-lengths and ends. ‘It’s great for clients as there’s no obvious regrowth, but not so good for the salon!’
Lose the foam
While some suggest skipping shampoo and just using conditioner on your hair, Richard recommends investing in a high-quality shampoo.
“When it comes to shampoo, I believe you get what you pay for,” he explains.
‘More expensive products usually contain fewer stripping ingredients, such as sodium laureth sulphate, which are bad for colour.’
Reduce the heat
Many people believe that doing a Wim Hof – showering in cold water – is the best way to make hair color last. Cold water keeps the hair cuticles closed and therefore prevents the color from fading too quickly.
If shivering in a cold shower doesn’t suit you, try lukewarm water.
From cold showers to mascara for our roots: celebrity hairdresser Richard Ward (pictured), whose salon includes the Princess of Wales, shares his tips
The quality of water also has a major impact on our hair. A little tap water contains iron, rust, copper and even lead, which accumulate in our hair.
Although you can purchase bottled distilled, purified, or descaled water (which contains none of the contaminants found in tap water), purchasing a water filter may be an easier option.
“Water filters that remove calcium, chlorine and other minerals that can discolor hair are a very good idea,” says Richard.
Style with care
‘Wherever you can, avoid using heat styling,’ says Richard.
‘If you have frizzy or curly hair, you should heat it, but use a heat protection spray and the lowest heat possible. If you can get away with styling that doesn’t require tools, like heatless curlers – which you sleep in – your color will last longer.’
He also recommends not using too much product.
“You’re better off with a volumizing spray that you only use at the roots, than with something like a mousse that goes through the mid-lengths and ends and can dull the hair,” he says. ‘And with all products the following applies: less is more.’
Seek the shade
Whether it’s the sun, which lightens dark shades, chlorine, which can turn blonde hair green, or salt water, which can dry out and discolor hair, vacations can damage hair color.
“If you’re going to be in the sun, use a UV protection spray and a hat,” says Richard.
‘And if you are a regular swimmer, use protective treatment, such as Philip Kingsley’s swimming cap, and a swimming hat. When people swim regularly, I always notice it: chlorine is a nightmare for hair.’
Magic wands
‘Color sticks, root touch-up products, pens and sprays can help you monitor root growth between visits,’ says Richard.
‘And color shine enhances dark tones, while, if the hair turns brassy, a toner is a good solution to help you through it.’
As told to Claire Coleman