Welcome to Denmark’s outdoor capital: cycle, hike or kayak through ‘wooded wilderness’ and ‘a mosaic of freshwater lakes’

At Svostrup Kro, a 19th-century inn on the grassy banks of Denmark’s Gudenaen River, guests arrive by car, bike, kayak or paddleboard to order the most popular dish.

Stjerneskud is an open sandwich in name only. If you look carefully, you will eventually find a slice of bread under the tower of shrimp, crispy fried plaice, curls of smoked salmon, cod roe, white and green asparagus, tomatoes, cucumber, mustard mayonnaise and a sprig of dill.

It’s sturdy enough to feed a Viking, but exploring the Danish Lake District, tucked away in the heart of mainland Jutland, is hungry work.

It is not for nothing that they call it ‘the outdoor capital of Denmark’. In this beautiful, largely untouched forested wilderness with a mosaic of freshwater lakes, you will quickly succumb to the lure of the wilderness.

Rent a mountain bike and race along the forest trails, join a guided hike along the numerous lakeside paths or rent a kayak and play ‘fantasy holiday cottage’ as you paddle past some of Denmark’s most luxurious lakeside estates.

Fiona McIntosh travels to the ‘outdoor capital’ of Denmark, tucked away in the heart of mainland Jutland. She visits Lake Almindso, pictured here, ‘one of Denmark’s cleanest freshwater lakes’

Fiona enjoys eating the region’s most popular dish, a Stjerneskud open sandwich, seen here (stock image)

The good news is that all of these healthy Scandinavian activities are easily accessible from the UK.

After a 90-minute flight from London to Billund, I hire a car and spend a leisurely hour driving through the flat farmland, past small villages with gates and stalls selling eggs and strawberries, to the centre of the district, Silkeborg.

This pretty seaside resort has a number of small hotels and affordable guesthouses, starting from just £49 a night (you’re not paying Copenhagen prices), although I manage to get a room in the recently opened New Hattenaesa beautiful lakeside retreat on the outskirts of Silkeborg.

Silkeborg, pictured here, is a “nice holiday resort” with a “range of small hotels and reasonably priced guesthouses,” says Fiona

Silkeborg, above, was built in the late 19th century in a forest overlooking the Brasso lake network

Built in the late 1800s in woodland overlooking the Brasso Lakes network, this traditional wooden retreat had fallen on hard times. But a meticulous renovation by a Danish design family means it now exudes a quietly glamorous, Great Gatsby-esque charm, with an excellent restaurant, expansive terrace bar and 14 bedrooms – all with lake views.

From the hotel you can take an easy 40-minute walk along the river path to Silkeborg. Alternatively, you can simply step onto the pier at the end of the garden and wait for Hjejlen, the world’s oldest original coal-fired steamboat, to take you into town.

This hop-on-hop-off service is a great way to see the lakes as you sail past large summer houses, through dense forests and past islands full of birds. I take the boat on a loop to Himmelbjerget (Sky Mountain) where I wind through fields of wildflowers and wild oaks to the top.

Fiona notes: ‘I take the boat for a loop to Himmelbjerget (pictured) where I wind my way through fields of wildflowers and wild oaks to the summit’

Wild swimmers will also love the walk to nearby Almindso, one of Denmark’s cleanest freshwater lakes. It’s also a triumph of Danish design. Circular wooden walkways jut out into the lake, forming two pools: a shallow one for small children and a deeper one for everyone.

After taking the dip (it’s still cold even in summer) I lie on the small sandy beach to warm up and feel wonderfully Scandinavian.

If you have the time, it is also worth spending a few nights in the harbour of Aarhus, an hour’s drive from Silkeborg.

This quaint, artistic city of cobbled streets, cafés and irresistible bakeries is also home to Denmark’s impressive ARoS Art Museum, one of the largest contemporary art galleries in Northern Europe, showcasing Danish and international artists. Take the elevator to the top for 360-degree views of the city through rainbow-colored panels.

Everywhere you walk in Aarhus you will be reminded of the genius of Danish design. From the many home furnishing shops and fashion boutiques in the alleyways of the Latin Quarter to the spectacular cantilevered roof garden and rooftop bars of the Salling department store.

Aarhus (pictured above) is an hour’s drive from Silkeborg and offers Danish design, simple food and rooftop gardens

But for me the biggest revelation is the quality of the food. While Copenhagen is famous for its extremely refined dining experiences at Michelin-starred temples such as Noma and Alchemist, the food here in Aarhus is simpler, cheaper but just as incredibly delicious. There is almost a national obsession with using local, seasonal ingredients, plucked from the rich land, lakes and sea that surround it.

At the brasserie Mefisto in the Quartier Latin in Aarhus I try the excellent version of the Stjerneskud ‘open sandwich’.

Then I take it a step further and try the tasting menu at the excellent Haervaerk restaurant, where I go all Danish and tuck into ox tongue schnitzel, seared catfish and pulled venison. This extraordinary culinary experience will set you back £62 per person for nine courses.

If you’ve always wanted to visit Denmark but the legendary prices have put you off, the little-known Danish Lake District is a smart, cost-effective and inspiring way to get in the (refreshing) water.