Welcome to the Albanian Riviera – the Maldives of Europe: turquoise waters, pristine beaches and wine for £1.70 a glass make this Balkan country the latest holiday destination
There aren’t many Mediterranean destinations that could be considered new frontiers, but the ‘Albanian Riviera’ – Albania’s southern coastline – is one of them.
Only two miles separate the Greek island of Corfu from this former communist Balkan country, and the same turquoise Ionian Sea laps the shores of both. Unlike Greece, however, Albania costs a fraction of the price.
The food is delicious (think fresh fish, lamb and salads), a large glass of wine costs £1.70 and rooms in luxury five-star hotels start from £50 a night.
There are no fly-and-flop package deals at the moment, so you’ll need to travel independently and hire a car to get around. But there’s never been a better time to go.
Albania enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year, with temperatures of around 18C well into November and its southern beaches have been described as the ‘Maldives of Europe’. Here’s our pick of the country’s best beach resorts from north to south.
Dreamy in Durres
Jo Kessel lists Albania’s best beach resorts. Above is Golem Beach in Durres, just 30 minutes west of the capital, with the suburb of Golem offering a ‘seemingly endless deep stretch of soft blond sand’
Keeping her cool: Jo in Albania
Located just 30 minutes west of Tirana, this seaside resort is most easily reached from the capital.
Once a thriving port in the Eastern Roman Empire, today ruins of ancient columns and walls can be found scattered throughout the palm-lined streets of the Old Town.
The coastline here is Adriatic and the best beaches are 22 kilometres away in the suburb of Golem – a seemingly endless stretch of soft blond sand.
For sports fans, there is an additional attraction. Tennis star Rafael Nadal is to open an academy here, next to Manchester City’s football school.
An eight-hour overnight passenger boat runs from Bari in Italy directly to Durres.
DO NOT MISS IT: In 1966 the remains of a huge Roman amphitheatre with a capacity of 20,000 people were discovered here (admission £2.50). You enter via the gladiator’s tunnel.
WHERE TO STAY: The rooms of the five-star Premium Hotel (premiumbeachhotel.com) with two swimming pools, a private beach, an Indonesian spa and an award-winning chef. Double rooms from £136 all-inclusive.
More in Vlore
Vlore, part of which is pictured here, has a lively old town, a seaside promenade and a public beach of fine stones
Albania is located on the coasts of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas
This seaside resort is a two-hour drive from Tirana, where the Adriatic Sea meets the Ionian Sea. It is the start of the ‘Albanian Riviera’. Head south and you will find the crème de la crème of coastal hotspots.
Vlore is the third largest city in Albania, with a lively old town, a seaside promenade and a public beach with fine stones.
The Karaburun Peninsula (Albania’s only national marine park) is clearly visible on the horizon, separating the dark waters of the Adriatic Sea from the turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea.
Donald Trump’s daughter Ivanka is a big fan and her husband Jared is rumored to be developing a luxury eco-resort on the uninhabited island of Sazan.
DO NOT MISS IT: A half-day boat trip takes you to Sazan Island and the Karaburun Peninsula, where you’ll find bat caves, marine life and secluded beaches. Bring a swimsuit so you can dive and snorkel from the boat. Departs daily at 10:00 (aquamarine-adventure.al).
WHERE TO STAY: The Marina Bay Resort (marinabay.al) is a chic establishment on the outskirts of the city with a beautiful infinity pool, private beach and casino. Double rooms from £85 B&B.
Delicious Dhermi
You’ll see beehives along the winding mountain roads leading to Dhermi (above), as well as stalls selling honey for a tenner.
Ask Albanians to name their favorite beach resort and they will say Dhermi. It is quiet and unique because it consists of beaches and a hilltop village.
In 1956, the area was hit by an earthquake, but a local couple renovated a number of abandoned houses and turned them into the boutique hotel Zoe Hora. Pop star Dua Lipa was the first guest.
Climb to the small 15th century church and you will not only be rewarded with panoramic views over the bay, but you will also find a cemetery with the most beautiful view in the world.
DO NOT MISS IT: You’ll see beehives lining the winding mountain roads leading to Dhermi, and stalls selling honey for a fiver. You can taste before you buy.
WHERE TO STAY: Follow in Dua Lipa’s footsteps and stay at Zoe Hora (zoohora.com). The price is worth it for the spa, pool and views. Double rooms from £127 B&B.
Himara hotspot
The entire Ionian coastline of Albania is fringed by mountains covered in pink and white oleanders. Himare stretches from high in the hills down to the sparkling blue sea.
Maracit and Potami are both beautiful beaches, but it’s worth hiring a car to explore the lesser-known coves (just watch out for goats crossing the road).
That said, the best beaches are those that are inaccessible by wheels. A steep descent leads to the hidden Filikuri beach (hold on to the ropes), which is enclosed by steep cliffs.
People who suffer from dizziness may want to rent a kayak and paddle there. The old town of Himare has a promenade that is ideal for a sunset stroll.
DO NOT MISS IT: Built during the country’s 500-year period in the Ottoman Empire, the 19th-century Porto Palermo Castle stands on an island connected to the mainland by a causeway (entrance £2.50). Walk along the battlements for great sea views before laying a towel on the beach.
WHERE TO STAY: The rooms of the three-star Anxhelos Hotel by the sea have a balcony (booking.com). Double rooms from £42 B&B.
Seduced by Saranda
Saranda (above), a port town in southern Albania, is bustling with shops, bars and restaurants. International boats arrive here daily, both from Corfu (30 minutes away by hydrofoil) and from Brindisi in Italy
A major port near the southern tip of the Albanian Riviera, it receives daily international ferries from both Corfu (a 30-minute hydrofoil ride) and Brindisi in Italy, an eight-hour overnight journey. The town is bustling with shops, bars and restaurants – and has a central promenade.
To escape the crowds, book a tall ship excursion with Pegasus Travel and Tours to the secluded Krorez Beach. The water is pale blue and the beach restaurant serves a feast of grilled cod, chips and salads, included in the £42pp rate.
Be prepared: the return journey of the ship includes dancing and a very entertaining foam party. Lekursi Castle, overlooking the Strait of Corfu, is the best place for sunset.
DO NOT MISS IT: Dental Fish. The name may look funny on the menu, but this fragrant local fish is regularly served in restaurants. It is a slightly meatier version of sea bass.
WHERE TO STAY: The five-star Bougainville Hotel (bougainvillebay.com) has multiple swimming pools, a private beach and a fantastic breakfast terrace. Double rooms from £50 B&B.
‘Maldivian’ in Ksamil
Ksamil, pictured here, is called the ‘Maldives of Europe’ because of its iridescent turquoise sea. Ten minutes away is the ancient UNESCO World Heritage town of Butrint
Ksamil has such an iridescent turquoise sea that Instagrammers have dubbed it the ‘Maldives of Europe’. Unfortunately, it does get a bit crowded. For a quieter beach, hire a pedalo (£13) to one of four remote islands, two of which are connected by a sand spit.
Ten minutes away by car lies the jewel in the crown of Albania’s cultural sites, the ancient UNESCO World Heritage city of Butrint. Here you’ll find tortoises alongside archaeological remains dating back to the 6th century BC and including Roman baths and Hellenistic gates.
Better yet, the surrounding forest offers a welcome respite from the sun. Butrint is also a popular day trip.
DO NOT MISS IT: The farmed mussels from nearby Lake Butrint have a superior flavour thanks to the unique combination of fresh and salt water. Grab a table on the beach at Poda restaurant and order a bowl for £8.
WHERE TO STAY: The stylish 20-room Poda Boutique Hotel (podahotel.al) has an enviable position by the sea. Double rooms cost from £76, half board.