Dordogne shire? These bastide villages have become a real magnet for British second-homers and tourists… but they’re still a French stronghold

That Monpazier’s premier hotel – the Edward 1er – is named after our own Edward I is a reminder of the deep and enduring ties between Britain and this fascinating region of south-west France.

When Edward came to the English throne in 1272, he also inherited the vast Duchy of Acquitaine – in which Monpazier is located – through his great-grandmother, Queen Eleanor. But he would have to fight to keep it. Philip IV of France decided that his English cousins ​​had stomped on his territory long enough and, in preparation for the coming wars, he built a series of fortified settlements – known as bastides – along the border of the disputed territory.

Not to be outdone, Edward began building his own network of bastides. Monpazier, founded in 1284, is perhaps the most beautiful and remains the most intact.

The British were finally expelled from Aquitaine in 1453, but recently they have returned, now in peace and brotherhood.

The bastide villages of the Dordogne have proven to be a major draw not only for tourists, but also for second-homers and those looking to establish more permanent roots in France. Snootier French purists are often dismissive of what they see as the over-anglicization of the region – Dordogne-shire, as they like to call it – but I experienced an open and cheerful spirit of symbiosis.

‘The charm of [Monpazier, above] And [the] the setting is a big draw,” friend and expat Ian tells Neil, adding: “It’s very picturesque in a gentle landscape.”

Our hosts and long-time friends Julie and Ian, both retired teachers, bought a small holiday home here in 2007 before moving to an elegant stone villa on about an acre of land on the edge of the town, where they started living full-time in 2019. .

‘The charm of the village and surrounding area is a big draw,’ says Ian. ‘It’s very picturesque in a gentle landscape, with warmer and drier weather than the north east of England where we came from. The locals are friendly, patient and helpful – especially if you try the language.’

You don’t have to live here to appreciate its qualities. This is a remarkable place: a piece of living history, yet with a contemporary atmosphere. It is also just a 40-minute drive from Bergerac airport and two hours from Bordeaux.

Monpazier’s main hotel, the Edward 1er (pictured), is named after Edward I of England, who founded the village in 1284

Ian says Monpazier (pictured), founded in 1284, is ‘perhaps the most beautiful’ of the bastide villages and ‘remains the most intact’

Access to the old town is via imposing gates with towers, behind which wide, low arches give access to a perfectly preserved market square. There are cheerful cafes, patisseries, artisan bakeries and a weekly market selling clothes, wine, fish, cheese and local produce.

We dine at Chez Minou, a family restaurant specialized in regional dishes. My duck gizzard salad, stewed, sliced ​​and warmed in the oven, is so delicious that I order another for lunch the next day in the larger town of Villereal. I also buy a can of duck gizzard confit at the market to cook at home – but discover later that, like Retsina and Moroccan caftans, it doesn’t really travel.

Our holiday is a lazy wander through the countryside, wandering around shops and markets, and eating and drinking too much. We visit the mighty bastide of Monflanquin, situated like a large eagle’s nest on top of a steep hill. Anyone who thought about attacking it in the past must have had a death wish.

‘Our holiday consists of a lazy wander through the countryside, wandering around shops and markets, and eating and drinking too much,’ says Neil. Above, bread at a market in the Dordogne

Neil visits the bastide of Monflanquin (pictured), which ‘lies like a great eagle’s nest on top of a steep hill’

For the active, there is canoeing at Domme, a recreational lake complete with beach and children’s facilities, and wild swimming at Limeuil.

Because I have no children under 38 and hate ice-cold water, I opt for 18 holes on the beautiful Lolivarie golf course near Belves. I am working with Greg, a former City trader, and Hilton, a retired accountant, who I had met a few days earlier. Both came here for a more peaceful life, and it seems to be working.

They are so relaxed that they let me win. Back in Monpazier we drink hoppy craft beer and eat burgers at Biere de la Bastide, owned by Hugh Davies, a cheerful Englishman with Celtic genes and a love of rugby. He opened here five years ago and has built a thriving business. Initially mainly attractive to visitors and expats, most employees and clientele are now French.

Above that, canoeing on Domme, a recreational lake complete with beach and children’s facilities

“It made sense to retire in France,” he says. ‘This is a beautiful place and the locals are extremely hospitable.’

The population of most bastides had declined as young people left. The capital injection from tourism and expat immigration therefore provides an important boost to the weaker local economies.

During a cycling tour of the bastide country in 1908, TE Lawrence (of Arabia) described Monpazier as ‘a small town that will soon fall into ruin’. How wrong he was.