The news is by your side.

Give Montenegro a chance! Medieval towns and glitzy marinas – this Balkan beauty is a rising star

0

Wakey, wakey on a Mediterranean morning and there’s a mesmerizing view of yacht masts. Elegant metallic-painted superships are sardine-packed, hulls that reflect the sunny ripples of the harbor waters as their owners emerge and saunter to shop in local boutiques.

But this isn’t Monte Carlo, it’s Montenegro, a small country sandwiched between Croatia and Albania, 350 miles east of the Adriatic Sea from Italy.

To the north, the mountains descend to fjord-like jade coves reminiscent of New Zealand or Norway. Further south, the wide, blond sandy beaches are reminiscent of Turkey.

For sun worshippers, it’s less than three hours’ flight from Gatwick – or from Manchester, on a fortnightly Jet2 route to the Tivat coast that starts next month.

The country is one of the best solar magnets in southern Europe, and the Regent Porto Montenegro, where I’m staying, is part of a luxury residential area near Tivat, owned by the Investment Corporation of Dubai.

Historical: Nick Redman discovers the delights of Montenegro. During a visit to the town of Perast (photo), he dines at the elegant Conti, which includes penne ‘The Sopranos’ with steak, porcini mushrooms and white truffles

Foreign money is being drawn to Montenegro like bees to honey – China has even provided a $1 billion loan for a controversial new highway that will connect with neighboring Serbia.

The Regent’s peach-colored facades and grand colonnades reference the grand palazzos of the Italian lakes. The bedrooms are not flashy, but super comfortable and many have a beautiful balcony overlooking the beautiful bay of Boka. Breakfasts are elegant, relaxed affairs and dinner at the on-site Murano restaurant is excellent, with modern Mediterranean dishes including a memorable bonito tartare.

There’s also nothing to complain about the value of food and drink in the marina’s posh establishments, with bottled local beers for €3.65 at the hotel, pizzas from €8 at the chic, bustling Roberto’s Mare, and pasta and risotto mains for €10 at Navale Kitchen & Bar.

Nick enjoys the view of the 'beautiful' Boka Bay (photo) during his journey.

Nick enjoys the view of the ‘beautiful’ Boka Bay (photo) during his journey.

Nick gets a 'snapshot of Montenegro in all its beauty' on a taxi ride to Budva (above)

Nick gets a ‘snapshot of Montenegro in all its beauty’ on a taxi ride to Budva (above)

The 40-minute taxi ride south to the town of Budva the next day is a snapshot of Montenegro in all its beauty, with brilliant blue Adriatic waters and pebbly beaches on one side, mountain peaks on the other, still dusted with snow.

With its lichen-splattered old stone roads, red roofs and sturdy churches, the center of Budva is a reminder of the medieval Venetian Republic, which also once held sway.

A few footsteps echo as we round quiet bends, but high summer will bring tourist crowds: Signs advertise Guinness at ‘English Pub The Prince’ and Nutella pancakes are on the menus.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city of Kotor was once a naval base and is sandwiched between towering peaks and a deep bay.  Above is the North Gate of the city

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city of Kotor was once a naval base and is sandwiched between towering peaks and a deep bay. Above is the North Gate of the city

The blue-domed church of Our Lady Of The Rocks is a

The blue-domed church of Our Lady Of The Rocks is a “beauty,” writes Nick

TRAVEL FACTS

B&B doubles in Regent Hotel Porto Montenegro (ihg.com) from £173.

EasyJet (easyjet.com) Gatwick to Tivat and Dubrovnik from £29 one way. Small group tours of the area start at £47pp with Go Baloo (gobaloo.me).

The same distance north of Porto Montenegro is the UNESCO-listed city of Kotor, once a naval base, sandwiched between towering peaks and a deep bay. I have to remind myself I’m not in Italy as I am ambling around.

West of the coast, the town of Perast offers the perfect lunch stop: the elegant Conti, whose specialty is penne ‘The Sopranos’ with steak, porcini mushrooms and white truffles.

Boats sail to Our Lady Of The Rocks, an islet apparently set up in Lake Garda. The blue-domed church is a beauty, lined inside with silver votive offerings left by storm-fearing sailors through the ages.

Family-run vineyard Savina, above Boka Bay, makes some of Montenegro’s best wines and our tasting is a holiday highlight, sipping a glass of pink grenache on the terrace as we nibble on white cheese.

The view is of cypress trees against the silvery Adriatic Sea. The soundtrack is of chardonnay being bottled rhythmically by a small machine at the bar. I inhale and swallow the magic of the Mediterranean.

Leave A Reply

Your email address will not be published.