Our tour of Rouen: They honeymooned in Paris, but John Sergeant and his wife Mary are celebrating their 55th anniversary in another enchanting French city

Many people, including myself, were completely wrong about Rouen. I always thought, coming off the ferry, that it was a useful stopover while rushing to the south of France. All too often the annoying phrase 'seen it, done it' is applied to what is actually one of the most interesting and enchanting French cities.

My first short visit, many years ago, did not go well, mainly due to an absurd attempt by the French authorities to be more hospitable to foreigners. We were given tokens called 'cheques-sourire' (smile cheques) to give to those who provided friendly service, allowing them to be entered into a prize draw. I can still remember the looks of horror after I handed them over to the shop owners… I had never heard 'merde' pronounced so bitterly.

This time all was forgiven. The smiles were genuine and despite it being January, the weather was mild, almost all the restaurants were open and Rouen was achieving its year-round status as a major tourist hub.

My wife, Mary, and I were in good spirits. We celebrated our 55th wedding anniversary and wondered again why we decided to get married in January.

Nostalgia decided that we would travel from Newhaven to Dieppe by ferry, as we had done on our honeymoon all those years ago. Eurostar was then just a twinkle in the eye of those who dreamed of a Channel Tunnel.

The four-hour crossing, in strong winds, did not dampen our spirits, and a smiling taxi driver with a large car got us to Rouen in no time. Our hotel, the four-star Hotel De Bourgtheroulde, can, like so much of the old city, trace its origins back several hundred years. It was badly damaged by bombing in the Second World War, but has been expertly restored, incorporating parts of the old building into the modern structure.

On our first night we found ourselves in the old market square and enjoyed the impression of Rouen as it was in the Middle Ages. Narrow, winding streets offer views of half-timbered houses that look like a Hollywood set for a Robin Hood movie. Real history in this capital of Normandy is never far away.

We visited a traditional restaurant conveniently located on a street named after William the Conqueror. He died here, as King of England, 21 years after the Battle of Hastings.

John and his wife Mary pictured in Rouen on the occasion of their 55th wedding anniversary

Above, the couple in Paris in 1969 on their honeymoon

And that's not the end of the British connection. As I unashamedly feasted on the traditional dish of calf's head, I was reminded that long after the Norman Conquest, the fair maiden of France, the great Joan of Arc, was burned at the stake by English forces in this square. But it would have been a terrible mistake to let history ruin a good dinner. And Rouen is one of the largest foodie centers in France.

I always want to enjoy the local dishes and cannot resist the temptation of steak tartare or kidneys in mustard sauce. Mary is more reserved, but is easily tempted by escargots in cream sauce or herb butter.

We are also both interested in architecture and art, which this city has in abundance. So the next day we walked to Rouen Cathedral – a Gothic masterpiece. The towering nave defies gravity and reminds us that it was French architects who first gave the world these tall, sharp, pointed windows that let in light through painted glass.

John says the half-timbered houses of Rouen (pictured) look like a 'Hollywood set for a Robin Hood movie'

John stays at Hotel De Bourgtheroulde, which can trace its origins back hundreds of years

Rouen also has another permanent place in art history. When trains first started running the relatively short distance from Paris, artists with their new portable equipment, easels and tubes of paint soon followed the River Seine to Rouen.

Claude Monet was the one who made the biggest impact with his famous series depicting the west door of the cathedral.

One of these can be seen in the Musee des Beaux Arts, next to a beautiful collection of impressionist paintings.

The last day we walked along the Seine. Upstream lies Paris and Rouen is the last deep port before the capital. It is here that for many summers the large sailing ships from all over Europe are moored for the Armada festival.

And when we left the next day, we looked back at our nearest bridge, and who is it named after? Oh yes, of course, William the Conqueror.