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Plaids, corduroy, kogal: autumn arrives in Tokyo

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If you spend enough time in Tokyo, you may begin to notice certain paradoxes, like how a city that feels so busy can sound so quiet. You may also find that, despite its vast area, the best way to experience the city is on foot. Its walkable nature has partly made Tokyo a destination that rivals Paris or New York for street photography.

During a recent visit in late October and early November, the city was unusually warm. As one local resident put it, “It seems Japan is moving toward only two seasons a year.” I spoke to her with the help of Momo Angela Ohta, a photographer in Tokyo who accompanied me around the city as an interpreter.

While the climate during my trip didn’t exactly reflect the season, there were signs of fall in terms of clothing. At Yoyogi Park, many people wore autumnal earth tones reminiscent of the park’s natural palette. Elsewhere, others dressed in plaids, corduroy and layers.

There was no shortage of personal style in neighborhoods like Shimokitazawa, one of the best areas for spotting and buying vintage fashion. It was easy enough to get locals to stop and be photographed, but when asked what drove their choice of clothing, many responded with a kind of humility and offered only a few tips. In Harajuku, a neighborhood known for its bright colors, I was surprised to see many outfits that incorporated black. I regarded it as yet another paradox of Tokyo.

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