Champagne, lavish seats, delicious food – why this trip is English rail travel at its best

Normally I would focus on the menu in a restaurant, but this time it’s the window at the table that catches my eye.

I slide it open immediately. Why? Because this is the beautiful dining car of a steam locomotive from 1946 and according to a waiter the windows should be open to let in the dirt. “It tastes like food!”

There is a growing nostalgia for the golden age of train travel, something that train enthusiast Marcus Robertson capitalizes on. Some 25 years ago he began restoring locomotives and carriages from the 1920s and founded Steam Dreams Rail Co, offering day trips on heritage trains across Britain.

I’m on a five hour lunchtime tour of the Garden of England pulled by an elegant 80 year old motorbike named Braunton. As the whistle blows and we drive away from London Victoria, smoke and soot billow into the carriage. Close your eyes and the scent takes you back to times gone by.

Carriages are wider and glossier than in today’s trains. The wood paneling is highly polished and seating is in opulent cushioned armchairs. Fresh flowers are on crisp white tablecloths next to an array of glasses.

Champagne is served first, followed by wine and canapés and there is time to explore before lunch. This is called Pullman-style dining and includes a three-course gourmet menu. First Class offers sparkling wine and a snack box; Premium Standard serves tea and coffee.

Regardless of class, everyone is treated like a VIP and all carriages are equally luxurious – the only difference is the upholstery pattern.

Despite his age, Braunton is very much alive and rolling along at 120 km/h. This makes walking through the carriages a wobbly job, especially after some vino. The gentleman in front of me is looking for the World Cup when he falters dangerously.

‘Whatever the class, everyone is treated like a VIP and all carriages are equally luxurious – the only difference is the upholstery pattern,’ says Jo

There’s a romance about train rides that focus on the journey rather than the destination, Jo reveals

“I think I’ve had too much to drink,” he says as I give him a helping hand. The loos are delightful, by the way – more Ritz than National Rail.

Our journey follows a circular route through the North Downs, across the Medway to the south coast, and the seasonal menu features produce from the passing fields.

No idea how, but chef Nicholas Allen prepares dishes for 200 passengers in a galley the size of a large SUV. There is no electricity or microwave, just two gas ovens.

On board the train, Jo enjoys ‘Pullman-style Dining’ – Champagne and canapés, followed by a gourmet 3-course meal

One of the seafood dishes served on one of Steam Dreams Rail Co’s day trips around Britain

“Despite his age, Braunton (above) is alive and well and rolling along at 120 km/h,” says Jo

The poached trout and crayfish starter and South Downs lamb for mains taste great as we speed past the Isle of Sheppey and then Rochester Cathedral. There is a 20 minute stop in Canterbury and passengers and rail enthusiasts alike gather to admire this vintage beauty.

It’s hot outside, but it’s even hotter when I’m allowed on the footplate to shovel coal. I am asked if I want to pull the whistle. Yes please. The trumpeting woo-woo is a real sensation.

Minutes later I’m eating apple pie as we steam past the white cliffs of Dover and the English Channel. On a good day I hear you can see France.

There’s a romance about train rides that focus on the journey rather than the destination. The experience feels very Orient Express, with nothing but time and the open rails ahead. You might feel a little gross, but it’s a great way to blow off some steam.