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Don’t let the excitement over the Elgin Marbles stop you from enjoying an Athens revival – the perfect ‘Greekend’ destination

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Greece’s anger over Rishi Sunak’s criticism of its prime minister, Kyriakos Mitsotakis, has upset travel companies and one or two locals who guide millions of British visitors to the bleached Acropolis.

‘The Acropolis is our most important monument; “Imagine if someone removed the clock from Big Ben or sold the Eiffel Tower?” says Athens Walks founder Kostas Chatzivasileiou.

But all is not lost. The city is doing well and recovering from an economic crisis and years of Covid lockdowns.

A record four million British visitors traveled to Greece this year, as the capital Athens became a ‘Greek’ destination, rivaling Berlin or Barcelona as a city break for foodies and art lovers.

At the top end of the market, hotel openings such as The Dolli and One&Only have put a spring in Athens’ step. Last summer, the number of visitors paying to see the Acropolis rose by 80 percent, meaning long lines and cancellations to avoid overcrowding. Undeterred, more than 17,000 people climbed the rocky hill in Athens every day to take a selfie with the Parthenon in the background.

“Last summer, the number of visitors paying to see the Acropolis (pictured) rose by 80 percent, meaning long lines and cancellations to avoid overcrowding,” writes June Field. ‘And now those in power have decided to increase the cost of a visit. From July 2025, the registration fee will increase from €20 per person to €30

And now those in power have decided to increase the cost of a visit. From July 2025, the registration fee will increase from €20 per person to €30.

The best way to beat the queues, especially in high season, is to pre-book a group tour online – ideally the earliest ‘skip the queue’ ticket at 9am, which includes entrance fee plus a two-hour guided tour with a licensed guide. This prevents the more expensive guides from bothering visitors at the entrance to the site.

Visit out of season for a completely crowd-free experience.

Early spring or October are the best months. Go at 5:30 PM for those beautiful sunset photos, as well as half-price entrance tickets, for €10 per person.

Most importantly, wear your most comfortable sneakers as there are 200 smooth marble steps to the Acropolis. Additionally, keep in mind that the campsite itself is full of uneven, rocky paths. And don’t forget a hat and a bottle of water.

No food is allowed and nothing is sold inside, so don’t come hungry.

No food is allowed on the Acropolis and nothing is sold inside, June says.  “So don't come hungry,” she adds.  Pictured: Cafes in Athens' nearby Plaka district

No food is allowed on the Acropolis and nothing is sold inside, June says. “So make sure you’re not hungry,” she adds. Pictured: Cafes in Athens’ nearby Plaka district

As you enter, you come to the most impressive vantage point: the iconic southwest corner of the Parthenon monument, where the missing Pentelic-carved marble frieze once formed the famous crowning centerpiece.

As far as calling them “the Elgin Marbles” is a phrase best avoided here. They were supposedly ‘purchased’ while Thomas Bruce, 7th Lord Elgin was British Ambassador to the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century; so the suggestion of ownership is generally not welcome. Instead, guides call them “statues and sculpted reliefs of the Parthenon.”

Break for lunch or a drink on the balcony of the nearby Acropolis Museum cafe and there is also a wonderful shop where you can buy souvenirs.

Meanwhile, many Acropolis guides believe the recent ruffling of feathers over the Elgin Marbles has worked to their advantage.

“This altercation has put the campaign in the spotlight at a global level, which can only be good news,” one of them said.

And it’s probably not bad for visitor numbers either.

TRAVEL FACTS

B&B doubles at Coco-Mat Hotel Athens BC from £115 (athensbc.com). Flights from London to Athens Eleftherios Venizelos return from £87 (easyjet.com). Acropolis Walking Tour, £30.30 per person (athens-walks.com).

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