Eight hundred hectares of pure bliss! No cars. No dress code… in Pine Cay in the Caribbean, where it’s all about laid-back luxury and admiring families of frolicking dolphins

“Look, dolphins,” I whisper to my husband, Chris, as I excitedly point to a newly created wave more than 50 yards from our spot on the shore. We wondered why dozens of colorful fish had suddenly darted beneath the rocks we were standing on.

Two turtles that were floating lazily nearby moments earlier had also disappeared.

It’s barely 6:30 in the morning, but nature has already put on quite a show here at The Aquarium – a lagoon-like bay on Pine Cay in the heart of Turks and Caicos. The rising sun has turned the horizon a glorious shade of orange, and apart from the wind and waves, the world is silent.

Pine Cay is a remote private island, one of approximately 40 that make up the Turks and Caicos Islands. The tropical archipelago south of the Bahamas can now be reached by direct flights from Great Britain to Providenciales Airport.

At just under a mile wide and two miles long – about 800 hectares – even casual travelers to the Caribbean would have trouble pinpointing it on a map.

There are fewer than 40 private homes on Pine Cay and only one recently updated 12-room resort – affectionately known as The Club by residents.

The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed. A welcome sign greets the day’s arrivals by name and bids a sad farewell to those leaving. There is no dress code, bare feet are encouraged. And every evening at 6 p.m., homeowners and visitors gather at the beachside tiki bar to toast the sunset with a cocktail or three.

On our first evening we arrive to a lively discussion about the island’s famous green flash – a phenomenon you sometimes see at sunset and just miss it – with photos passed around as proof that it exists.

‘The rooms are light and airy – whitewashed walls, touches of sea blue decor and light wood furnishings,’ says Victoria of the Pine Cay resort

The resort is affectionately known as The Club by residents, Victoria reveals

Cars are not allowed. Instead, visitors stagger around the rocky paths in electric golf buggies. Single-use plastics have also been phased out and reusable water bottles are provided in every room.

The rooms are light and airy – whitewashed walls, touches of sea blue decor and light wood furnishings. There is also a private veranda with ocean views and an outdoor shower. Closer to the sea there are tiki beach huts with lounge chairs for each room. From there you have three kilometers of pristine white sand to enjoy. For the energetic guests there are plenty of gentle water sports. All you have to do is go to reception and ask for Sherwyn, who has lived on the island for almost twenty years and knows it better than anyone.

Soon we’ll be kayaking around the Aquarium and surrounding mangroves, where a stingray will race past our boats and we’ll spy cranes.

Next up is paddle boarding and a sailing outing – all the while looking for the dolphin family that patrols the island: JoJo, his girlfriend and a playful baby who likes to turn around for swimmers to pet.

Pine Cay is just under a mile wide and two miles long and covers approximately 800 acres

Above you see one of the dolphins that call the area home

Given the island’s location on the edge of the third largest barrier reef in the world, snorkeling is also a must. And we spend hours searching for the star-stamped shells called sand dollars that we’re sure bring good luck.

Perhaps the best moment is the firefly cruise at dusk. This 15-minute underwater light show – which is actually a brutal mating ritual – can only be seen in a handful of places on the planet. With the stars above and a rum punch in hand, the experience is otherworldly. But it only happens once a month, five nights after the full moon, so you need to plan your visit carefully.

All meals are served outdoors by the freshwater pool (no swimming allowed during meals). A highlight is the Caribbean evening, with spicy conch fritters, croaker fillet in pumpkin sauce and grilled pineapple. The staff is attentive but not intrusive. And nothing is too much trouble, whether it’s a candlelit dinner on the beach, a picnic lunch on a secluded beach or a pampering session at the hotel spa.

With no busy cities to visit and little entertainment – ​​apart from an outdoor projector screen near the runway if you fancy a movie night – we spend the evenings stretched out on sun loungers, sipping bottles of our favorite local lager I-Soon Reach and look at the sky for shooting stars.