I have visited a little familiar city that is the ‘real Colombia’ – and it seems that time is standing still

Everyone likes Cartagena. Ask the next person to describe the perfect Caribbean city and there is a good chance that it will look like this Spanish colonial jewel, on the sunny north coast of Colombia.

Dainty wrought iron balconies hang with bougainvillea, those pastel-colored squares and churches are Insta-Perfect.

The only problem is – as everyone agrees – the picturesque narrow lanes of Cartagena are held with Mariachi Trios and American honeymoon.

No worries, because I was told that if you make some effort, you can find a colonial Colombian city just as excellent – but you can actually have it all for yourself. Where could that be?

Then I jump into my car-plus driver. Soon the cityscape dissolves in banana forests.

Three hours later we rattle in Santa Marta, a pleasantly lively harbor in a spectacular location, where Bergen packed with snow -packed are making their way in the ocean.

Niets a café cortado on the light -hearted coast, I mention my further plan. The Dashing -Moustachio’d Barista says: ‘Are you really going to Mompox? You are lucky. And bad luck. ‘

Fortunately, he explains because I will see the ‘real Colombia’; Bad luck, because after that everywhere else may seem a bit colorless elsewhere.

Sean Thomas visits the city of Santa Cruz de Mompox and discovers why – according to the locals – this is the ‘real’ Colombia

The nearest Starbucks, Chain Restaurant or Hotel is approximately 200 km from Mombox

Santa Barbara Church in Mombox is a highlight for many visitors to the city

Further and inland. Over time, the ranches and meadows make way for waterways and jungle

Finally, after a full six -hour drive, the large Magdalena River widens for us and we put in my ultimate destination. Santa Cruz de Mompox. Or just ‘mompox’ for those who love it.

History hangs Lame around Mombox, such as one of the many hammocks. In the 17th century, Spanish traders, on the fleeing Piratical British raids on the coast, their fortunes stored here: palaces, churches, warehouses, mansions.

Then the canal ran out, evaporated trade and mompox were stranded brilliantly. Result – The nearest Starbucks is 200 km away, also the nearest chain hotel or hypermarket. Nobody complains.

There are a few graceful boutique hotels and a few relaxed bars and restaurants in the river bank. Safe, Sekwestrian, delicious small mombox gets just enough tourism for this. My Bijou Bolt-Hole is a tiled, colonial Palacio with green around a diving bath.

After a relaxing siesta I step into the city and I discover that, just as I hoped, there is almost nothing to do.

In the twilight, the locals bring mahogany chairs forward and are sitting on the river, sipping cold Colombiana beer.

After an hour they float to the cafes, for fresh catfish in coconut curry. In the meantime, an owl roosts in an elegant church tower and football in football in the Starlit squares.

Colonized by the French in the 17th century, the historic center of Mompox is now a UNESCO World Heritage.

Sean took a fishing boat on the river Magdalena, depicted, with the help of a local fisherman

The next day I go on the river – that’s what people do if they don’t stare at the river.

As the afternoon draws sleepy, Stirert Stirert through Lelie -struggling creeks where Kingvisers dive, electric blue. A fisherman grins, knee -deep in the river; The trek is so abundant that he hardly has to work, so he waves at us instead. His smiling children do the same.

As we go home, the skipper kills the engine – to see the tropical sun his nightly trick. With the daylight that is behind, Mompox Carmo-Red and then Purple, with his bell towers, is mirrored in the copper colored river washing.

That Santa Marta Barista was right. Cartagena Blinds, Santa Marta Sizzes, but Mombox EnChants

While I find my evening string, I think of the famous words of Gabriel García Márquez about this city: “Mompox does not exist, but sometimes we dream of her.”

With all due respect, I disagree with the great Colombian novelist. Mombox exists, beautiful and stubborn, directly on the watery edge of reality.