On the world's largest cruise ship, excitement and space to relax

One man knelt down and kissed the cloth bearing the ship's logo. Another lifted his wife and spun her around, thrilled to be among the approximately 5,000 passengers boarding the inaugural sailing of the world's largest cruise ship, the Icon of the Seas.

For months, the 250,800-ton vessel, which can carry nearly 8,000 people, has made headlines, including some criticizing its size and potential damage to the environment. But the passengers who boarded the ship at Port Miami, Florida, on Jan. 27 said nothing could have prepared them for the sheer size of the ship.

“It's breathtaking,” said Christina Carvalho, a 43-year-old accountant from Oakland, California, as she stood on the ship's Royal Promenade and looked at “The Pearl,” a giant kinetic art installation. “It feels even bigger than I expected.”

While Royal Caribbean has equipped the ship with amenities to create “the ultimate family vacation,” the company's design team has sought to defy negative stereotypes such as crowded decks and long lines. Instead of steel walls, the interior is open and airy, with floor-to-ceiling windows to bring passengers closer to the water and make the central thoroughfare feel less like a mall.

“Over the years, our customers told us that even though they were on the ocean, they felt disconnected from it, so with Icon we wanted to bring water everywhere,” said Jennifer Goswami, director of product development at Royal Caribbean International.

I was aboard the Icon of the Seas for five days during its seven-night inaugural sail to the Eastern Caribbean. Here are some of my takeaways:

Embarkation

Embarkation begins via the Royal Caribbean app. After some glitches, it took me 10 minutes to scan identification documents, fill out a health form and choose a time to board.

On the day of the sailing, I headed to Port Miami expecting chaos, but when I got out of the taxi I was greeted by a doorman who grabbed my bag and led me to the terminal. I scanned my app, showed my passport and went through security in less than 10 minutes. I lingered and waited to see if others had as smooth an experience as I did, but there was only a steady stream of passengers walking up the gangway.

Room

The ship has the feel of a city, with eight different 'neighborhoods'. My favorite, Central Park, was filled with 20,000 plant species; it was the perfect place to take a walk or read on a bench. The Royal Promenade, with karaoke and a piano bar, can become busy and noisy at peak times.

The seven pools are designed for different vibes and demographics: The Hideaway is an adults-only infinity pool, with DJ sets and cocktails; another adult pool has an adjacent children's pool. There were plenty of empty lounge chairs for the sun worshipers on the other side of the ship.

On our first day at sea, I was so surprised by the relative absence of crowds that I walked across the ship to find them. But with so many venues, including 40 restaurants, bars and entertainment venues, passengers were constantly on the move.

Looking for a quiet place one afternoon, I found the Aquadome, a quiet lounge area with surrounding windows. Fellow passengers took a nap there.

Entertainment and activities

From a surf simulation lesson at sunrise to dancing into the night in the nightclub, the ship seems to offer something for everyone, and most of it is free. The water park with six slides was a big attraction. One ride, the Crown's Edge, isn't free: Starting at $49, it throws you (in a harness) above the sea, leaving you dangling.

There is a fitness center, jogging track, basketball and soccer court, putt-putt course, pickleball, rock climbing and dancing. A wellness center and spa offer treatments at a surcharge. Everything can be reserved via the app; For popular attractions such as Crown's Edge, it's a good idea to book ahead as places fill up quickly.

As for nightly entertainment, “Aqua Action” was a highlight, with water performers performing under a 55-foot waterfall, as was the comedy club.

Not surprisingly, some passengers felt overprogrammed. “There's almost too much to do,” says Nancy Carter, 54, a nurse from Brighton, England. “It's hard to plan your day and even when you're busy doing something, you feel like you're missing something else.”

Family

In the Surfside neighborhood there are pools and restaurants for both adults and children, so families can spend time together. For parents who want time for themselves, Adventure Ocean childcare has play areas and programs for ages 6 months to 12 years, which are included in the price.

There is also a social center for teenagers, with games and music. “It's a great place to meet new people and make friends,” said Madison Foxx, 14, of Morrisville, NC. Her mother, Ashley, a 38-year-old federal prosecutor, said the ship entertained her two children and allowed her both some alone time and quality family time.

“I can relax and the children are happy and busy all day,” she says. “Then we have many special moments together.”

Food

One of the biggest surprises was the range of dining options.

The Windjammer Café and main dining room were the busiest all-inclusive options. My daily destination was the Aquadome food hall, with made-to-order pancakes and a Greek food stall. Another favorite of mine was Pier 7, a restaurant in Surfside that served raw tuna Buddha bowls, mango-lime shrimp tostadas, and other dishes.

Meals at specialty restaurants, such as Giovanni's Italian Kitchen and Hooked Seafood, have an additional charge or are included in some food and beverage packages that range from $9.99 to $115 per day. Reservations are recommended.

The Empire Supper Club offers an eight-course menu combined with cocktails. For $200, the tasting menu included Wagyu ribeye, rabbit and sea bass, topped with parsnips and beetroot.

Cabins

Prices for cabins – which have recently increased due to high demand – range from $2,699 per person for an indoor cabin to well over $100,000 for a three-story mansion with an indoor slide and backyard. Some family accommodations have connecting rooms and large terraces.

Even though my oceanfront balcony room was only 20 square meters, I didn't feel cramped thanks to the minimalist design and view.

Environment

Royal Caribbean says it has set a new standard for sustainability with this ship, by installing advanced water purification and waste systems, among other things. But some environmental groups say building a ship of this size is not compatible with the cruise industry's long-term sustainability goals.

On board, I saw the staff sorting through the trash to pull out misplaced items for recycling, and the single-use plastics seemed minimal; passengers were given reusable cups at drinking stations.

The fact that the water slides remained open even after they were closed to passengers surprised me. It seemed like an unnecessary waste of energy. (Royal Caribbean did not respond to a request for comment.)

Passengers I spoke to didn't seem too concerned about the ship's potential damage to the environment, with some claiming that land and air travel aren't climate-friendly either.

Field trips

Our seven-night journey began with two days at sea. The first stop was on day 4 in Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts and Nevis. Excursions ranged from a hike up Mount Liamuiga to a food-and-rum tour, with prices from $39 to $249. I opted for a sailing and snorkeling excursion ($155) and enjoyed the secluded bay, but beach was busy and touristy.

An anticipated excursion for Ms. Foxx, the federal prosecutor, and others was Coco Cay, Royal Caribbean's private island. When I asked about her visit – I called later because I had to disembark before the excursion – Mrs. Foxx said her kids loved the slides and snorkeling.

And would she sail on the Icon of the Seas again?

“Yes, but I might wait a little longer,” she replied. “I want everyone to have the opportunity to try it out.”