Inside Tampere, Finland – the happiest city in the happiest country in the world

Finland has just been named the happiest country in the world by the World Happiness Report for the sixth year in a row. You might think that the recent bitterly contested election and having a 1,340 km long border with Russia would have lifted the spirits of the Finns, but not one little bit.

Why are they so happy? According to Business Finland’s Heli Jimenez, ‘Finnish happiness comes from a close relationship with nature and our down-to-earth lifestyle.’

That explains why Tampere, a city where nature penetrates into the city center, is regularly chosen by other Finns as the place where they would most like to live. About 180km (111 miles) north of Helsinki and located on a land bridge between Lakes Nasijarvi and Pyhajarvi, good humor is key here – the happiest place in the happiest country in the world.

There is much to be happy about. In the summer the Tampereites head to the pristine beaches that are just a few minutes from the office, in the winter they ski through the fairytale forests that surround them. You can enjoy both in Pyynikki, the lakeside forest with coastal walks and swimming spots, which is a short ride on the number 10 tram. After swimming, climb up through the trees to the Pyynikki sighting tower. The views over the lakes and the city from this 1920s landmark are breathtaking, but, just as importantly, the café tower is famous across Finland for its freshly made doughnuts.

There are more donuts in the Market Hall on Hameenkatu. Opened in 1901, this is the largest covered market in the Nordic countries and the stalls and cafes are filled with high quality local produce, such as the berries that abound in the region in late summer – a great place to have lunch or grab coffee.

Tampere is located about 180 km north of Helsinki and is located on a land bridge between the lakes Nasijarvi and Pyhajarvi

Lake Kaukajarven municipal sauna (above) is just outside Tampere ‘features hot stones, buckets of water and happy Finns with ladles’

Temperatures in Tampere can be below freezing until the end of April, Michael notes

Nearby, the rapids connecting Lakes Nasijarvi to Pyhajarvi flow through the town via Tammerkoski Falls. Watch the haunting spectacle from the safe Tammerkoski footbridge in a Lowry-esque cityscape of 19th-century red-brick mills that have been preserved and repurposed.

The Vaprikki center, meanwhile, is an ex-factory complex that now houses 10 small museums ranging from natural history to computer games. And the once mighty Finlayson Works and the Tampella factory are home to great bars and restaurants.

From the window of the sauna of the new sauna you have a view of the steaming water Sauna restaurant Kuuma on Tammerkoski quay – one of 34 in a city that was named World Sauna Capital in 2018. Then eat in a heated greenhouse overlooking the Tammerkoski quay.

Prefer a traditional steam bath? The shore of the lake Kaukajarven municipal sauna is located just outside the city on yet another lake and features hot stones, buckets of water and happy Finns with ladles. In winter the lake freezes and a hole is made in the ice for sauna users. Force yourself to do it for a huge natural high (and goosebumps).

‘A good mood is key here,’ says Michael about Tampere. According to Business Finland’s Heli Jimenez, ‘Finnish happiness comes from a close relationship with nature and our down-to-earth lifestyle’

The rapids connecting lakes Nasijarvi to Pyhajarvi flow through the town via Tammerkoski Falls

The Tampere Hall arts center is home to the symphony orchestra, but – perhaps more importantly – the one and only Moomin museum in the world

The Moomin Museum features two floors of original artwork by Moomin creator Tove Jansson, including a remarkable six-foot-tall Moomin House (above)

Michael writes: ‘In the summer the Tamperes go to pristine beaches just minutes from the office, in the winter they ski through the fairytale forests that surround them’

Visit for great ice scenery: the waters around Tampere can be a bit nippy

The temperature in Tampere can be freezing or lower until the end of April, but they have great things to do indoors. The Nokia Live Arena, designed by renowned architect Daniel Libeskind, and costing 124 million euros (£109 million), is home to two first-class ice hockey teams Ilves and Tamapara. Tampara just won the national championship and derby matches are raucous and very exciting events; beer is drunk and sausages are eaten.

The stadium is home to the five-star Lapland Hotel, which has balcony suites overlooking the arena, which hosts major cultural events in addition to sport, most recently a stunning new interpretation of the Snow Queen. The spectacular ice dance with numerous dancers, skaters and innovative design reimagines Hans Christian Anderson’s folktale with dark urgency and will tour Europe in 2024.

More live music? The Tampere Hall arts center is home to the symphony orchestra, but – perhaps more importantly – the one and only in the world Moomin Museum. This features two floors of original artwork by Moomins creator Tove Jansson, including a remarkable six-foot Moomin House that Jansson created with her partner Tuulikki Pietila. And if that doesn’t make you happy, nothing will.