Atlanta’s food scene is feeling ‘the Keith Lee effect’

When a food critic comes to a city that prides itself on its food culture, restaurants and their aficionados take notice. But rarely does a traditional food reviewer create as much excitement as Atlanta has seen with the recent visit of Keith Lee, a food obsessive with a massive army of 14 million followers on TikTok.

Mr. Lee, known for his ability to revive a small business with his legions of fans, was often frustrated by what he perceived as strange rules at various restaurants.

“Butter is a dollar? At a breakfast spot?” he asked in a video on his first day in Atlanta, eating takeout in his car. Mr. Lee, based in Las Vegas, reviews mostly independent, mom-and-pop restaurants, many of which are black-owned. He often orders takeout and has his family pick it up, so he doesn’t get star influencer treatment.

Mr. Lee has shot videos from Detroit, Chicago and Los Angeles, but the response in Atlanta has been remarkable. For many of his followers there, his criticism appears to have opened a valve to their longstanding complaints about some of the city’s restaurants.

The complaints include surcharges for items like hot sauce or syrup and the lack of options for reservations or takeout orders. Some of the complaints concern rules that are common in many other cities: for example, the requirement that an entire group must be present to take a seat.

But something about Mr. Lee’s videos has struck a chord with some Atlanta guests, who took to social media to call for change. “I hope this is a wake-up call for some of these restaurants,” said one TikTok user from Atlanta. “The extra ‘rules’ are driving me crazy.”

Even rapper Cardi B got in on the action, saying on Instagram Live on Monday that she “can barely order from restaurants in Atlanta” unless she drops her name. Of course, restaurants have long given special treatment to celebrities, and even some influencers, but Mr. Lee has made equal treatment of all guests a core part of his message. “I’m just Keith,” he said in a video. “Aside from social media, I’m a normal person.”

The Atlanta Journal-Constitution wrote this week that the city had been ‘Keith Lee’d’ noting that his tour of the city’s food scene coincided with another seismic dining event: the announcement of Atlanta’s first Michelin star restaurants.

Some restaurateurs saw real results, for better or worse, after Mr. Lee’s visits. One restaurant sold out for the first time in its history after receiving a favorable review and had to extend its opening hours. At another restaurant where Mr. Lee had a frustrating experience, the inbox quickly filled with vitriol and threats.

Those are the two sides of what some call the Keith Lee effect.

Mr Lee did not respond to messages left this week. He is a former professional mixed martial arts fighter and has said he started using TikTok as a way to calm his fear of public speaking. In 2021, he started posting restaurant reviews on the platform.

His story quickly found a large audience who responded to his willingness to try restaurants off the beaten path. Mr. Lee posts reviews from his home or car and regularly tries places suggested by viewers or restaurant employees. He prides himself on his neutrality, he says, never accepting special treatment and sometimes tipping thousands of dollars. This year he teamed up with influencer MrBeast, who has more than 88 million followers on TikTok, to support restaurants in need.

That wide reach can be a boon for entrepreneurs, but it can also lead to heated debates.

The Real Milk and Honey, a brunch spot in College Park, Georgia, faced the most criticism from viewers last week. Mr Lee expressed frustration with the restaurant’s complicated ordering process and the offer to seat him early due to his celebrity status, which he declined.

“I hope this is a wake-up call for some of these restaurants,” one TikTok user wrote. Many agreed, but others said they felt the rules were necessary to maintain a business.

After Mr Lee posted his video, Shauna Neely, a spokeswoman for Real Milk and Honey, said the restaurant received cruel and vitriolic messages on social media.

“Brunch is a vibe everywhere, but in Atlanta it’s huge,” Ms. Neely said. “We have to have these house rules because we are very busy.”

But, she added, “the only negative thing is the comments.” The attention has attracted more followers and customers on social media, she said. The restaurant too said up Instagram reported that the posted rules for dining were outdated and have since been updated to reflect changes.

The social media backlash quickly spiraled out of control when another restaurant with a similar name, Milk and Honey, was confused with the one Mr Lee had reviewed. According to a screenshot Mr Lee posted on TikTok, the owner of that restaurant said staff members had received death threats.

Mr Lee implored his viewers to refrain from such behaviour. “That is not okay in my opinion under any circumstances,” he said.

On the other side of the Keith Lee Effect are restaurants like the Dining Experience in Fairburn, Georgia, where a positive review has given the restaurant new energy.

“We sold out on Saturday and Sunday,” said Kyesha Johnson, the owner. “That’s the first time this has ever happened.”

In closing videos, Mr Lee responded to some of the fuss over his visit, which coincided with a family trip, by saying he would be reluctant to explore other cities if it would only spark controversy. He condemned the harassment of restaurants and said there was “so much positive in Atlanta.”

He said the goal of his video reviews is to “give back to the community” and help entrepreneurs. “If you want me to come, understand that I will be honest.”