My new love affair – with the divine Dolomites (and its amazing snow cannons): MARK PALMER on why this ‘special part of Italy’ beats the Alps for ski holidays

The Alps or the Dolomites? As someone who has skied the former almost every year of his adult life, it feels almost disloyal to be on the side of the latter.

No, there aren’t many ski-in, ski-out hotel options or hosted chalets, and natural snow cover can be an issue – but what the Dolomiti lacks it makes up for in its charm, friendliness and spectacular mountain scenery.

And let’s face it, you’re in Italy, not France – a special part of Italy where most people speak Italian, German and Ladin. And you can now fly direct to the Val Gardena region with a twice-weekly service from Stansted to Bolzano, instead of Innsbruck, almost two hours away.

Moreover, snowmaking is more extensive here than anywhere else in the world. On a previous visit, when there had been hardly any snow, the slopes were still open.

We stay in the village of Ortisei. It is close to the famous Sella Ronda, perhaps the largest ski circuit in Europe.

Left: Mark is excited about the Dolomites. Right: St. Anthony’s Church in Ortisei, dating from 1673

There are 12 connected valleys, which, if you can resist the fantastic restaurants along the way, can be skied in a day by following the signs for Sella Ronda.

Before tourism came to the fore, Ortisei’s prosperity was largely due to the woodworking industry. Near the village we pass shops selling life-size statues of Jesus, Mary, Joseph and a whole heavenly legion of saints. Locals will tell you that there is not a Catholic church in the world that does not contain something made in this beautiful town.

Wandering through the pedestrian area feels like a reminder of gentler times. This isn’t boys-on-tour territory.

Base yourself in Gardena Grodnerhof and you will be pampered in a warm, hospitable atmosphere. The hotel opened in 1923 and has been run by the same family ever since. It shows.

I even have someone who helps me put on my ski boots in the morning and take them off again in the evening. Perfecto.

Mark is staying at the Gardena Grodnerhof hotel (photo) and says ‘you will be pampered in a warm, hospitable atmosphere’

A room in the Gardena Grodnerhof hotel, opened in 1923 ‘and run by the same family ever since’

The hotel offers a shuttle service to the various lifts that connect to the Sella Ronda. If you’re a fan of black runs, you might be disappointed, but those who like impeccably groomed, wide-open slopes couldn’t ask for more.

You’ll be skiing closer to massive rock faces here than anywhere else in the Alps, and when the sun sets on these jagged peaks they glow a glorious pink.

One evening we eat on the mountain at a restaurant called Friedrich August Refuge. Inside, it’s wood paneled and Canazei’s lights twinkle in the distance. The tomahawk steaks are huge, but exceptionally tender – and the local wines are excellent.

It would now take a lot of persuasion to take a ski trip to a purpose-built resort. This strikes me strongly as I stand outside the small St. Anthony’s Chapel (built in 1673), the door open just wide enough to see the altar, with flickering candles and a beautiful painting above.

Then in the evening light I see the snow-capped Dolomites looming on the horizon – and they look completely divine.