The City of Revolution, Rocky and Renoir: A Long Weekend in Philadelphia Reveals a City Fanatic about Art, Sports and Their Role in the Birth of Modern America
Frank Sinatra sang about New York and Tony Bennett left his heart in San Francisco. But Philadelphia? Despite attempts by Elton John and Bruce Springsteen, no one has ever come up with a hit that captures the soul of the city.
It’s a shame, because there’s plenty to sing about – especially if you like sports. It is home to the Flyers (ice hockey), the Phillies (baseball), the 76ers (basketball) and the Eagles (American football), who finished second in the Superbowl last season.
And who could forget his role in Sylvester Stallone’s Rocky movie? As part of his training regimen, the future champion runs up the 72 stone steps leading to the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Now known as the Rocky Steps, they are just one of the city’s many landmarks.
Philadelphia has history, art and beauty in abundance. Located on the east coast, it is the largest city in Pennsylvania and the sixth largest in the US.
When I met up with friends for a long weekend, I was captivated by its easy-going charm. The residents, who call it Philly, tell everyone how great their city is. A woman I met had moved here from Washington DC two years ago and was never going back: “DC was buzzing with politicians during the week, but was dead on Saturday nights,” she said. “Here in Philly, we all live, work and play in the same place.”
Deidre Fernand spent a long weekend in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania’s largest city. “I was fascinated by its easy-going charm,” she writes
New York, Washington and Boston make headlines, she explained, but underappreciated Philadelphia is full of treasures to be discovered.
It’s also super friendly. As soon as I grabbed my guide, passersby stopped to help. I was headed to the Old Town, a grid of 18th-century streets where the American Revolution took shape. As every child in the US learns, Philadelphia is the birthplace of the nation. It was at Independence Hall – an elegant building from Georgian times – that the founding fathers broke ties with the English crown in 1776. I hadn’t grown up in the US and needed some help understanding the history, so I joined a walking tour led by Melissa, who taught our group the basics for an engaging hour.
She led us to Benjamin Franklin’s grave and we lined up to see the Liberty Bell, cast as a symbol of Britain’s liberation. “Do you want a belfie?” the man in front of me asked – a reference to a selfie taken in front of the bell. I indeed did that.
In the movie Rocky, Sylvester Stallone famously runs up the 72 stone steps leading to the Philadelphia Museum of Art (above). They are now known as the Rocky Steps, Deirdre explains
Deidre notes that the Philadelphia Museum of Art (above) has a “remarkable” 20th century American collection, including works by Edward Hopper and Andy Warhol
Knockout: The Rocky statue outside the Philadelphia Museum of Art
Washington, Adams, Jefferson… my head quickly spun. But at the Museum of the American Revolution, with its battle plans and bayonets, it all began to fall into place.
As I headed to dinner, I realized how familiar the cityscape seemed. Of course I knew it from Hollywood. Aside from that, Philadelphia is a top film location: Trading Places and Witness are just two of the blockbusters shot here.
My destination was McGillin’s Olde Ale House, dating from 1860 and the oldest pub in the city. It’s known for the city’s signature dish, the terribly high-calorie Philly cheesesteak: ribeye steak topped with melting provolone cheese in a bun called a hoagie. Bad news for your blood vessels, good news for your mind.
I had the perfect excuse to indulge since I was hitting the Rocky Steps the next day. Stallone managed them in about 11 seconds – I was happy with two minutes.
For art lovers, Philadelphia is a picturesque paradise – there’s so much of it that you’ll need the stamina of a budget fighter to appreciate it all.
The Philadelphia Museum of Art has a remarkable 20th century American collection, including works by Edward Hopper and Andy Warhol, while the Barnes Foundation attracts visitors from afar.
“For good food, visit the Reading Food Terminal (above), a farmers’ market housed in a former train station, where you can find Amish home cooking alongside Asian flavors,” Deirdre writes.
Dr. Albert Barnes was a chemist and art lover who amassed the largest Impressionist and Post-Impressionist private collection in the world. The result is a riot of color: walls full of crazy images of Matisse, Picasso, Cezanne and Modigliani. No wonder it recently had a marketing slogan: “Come for Rocky, stay for Renoir.”
Whatever your reason for visiting this city, Rocky or Renoir, you are sure to enjoy yourself.
For good food, visit the Reading Food Terminal, a farmers’ market housed in a former train station, where you can find Amish home cooking alongside Asian flavors.
Philadelphia is not an attention-seeking, shouty city that proclaims its greatness.
It’s just quietly brilliant. Now all it needs is a song…