Thessaloniki for under £100 a night: It’s not just Athens – Greece’s second city is also packed with ancient remains, vibrant markets and a rich history
Greece’s second city is often overlooked because Athens attracts the big, camera-clicking crowds.
Yet it is full of sights, including beautiful ancient remains, markets, beautiful churches, rich history – plus a long promenade on the Aegean Sea with views of Mount Olympus.
The locals practice chalara, which means ‘relaxation… moving in slow motion, without stress’.
Where to stay
Hotel Le Palace
Greece’s second city Thessaloniki is often overshadowed by Athens but is ‘full of interest’, says Tom Chesshyre
On a corner near the boulevard, Le Palace has beautiful, recently renovated rooms; some with balconies and partial views of the Aegean Sea. Breakfast is served in a colorful dining room on the first floor. The hotel offers excursions to Mount Athos and the striking rock formations at Meteora. Friendly staff.
Double from £87 B&B (lepalace.gr).
Egnatia Palace Hotel and Spa
This is a popular choice overlooking Dikastirion Square with its ancient Greek Orthodox churches and remains of Byzantine fountains. The spa includes a small pool, hot tub, sauna and massages.
Double from £88 B&B (egnatiapalace.gr).
Hotel Luxembourg
Thessaloniki has a long promenade on the Aegean Sea with views of Mount Olympus. In the photo: the White Tower of Thessaloniki on the waterfront
Expect bright, well-appointed rooms with tall windows and leather sofas at this hotel, a short walk from the promenade and a string of chic bars that bustle at sunset.
Parking (difficult in Thessaloniki) is available for £13 per day.
Double from £84 B&B (hotelluxembourg.gr).
Colors Urban Hotel
The port city boasts beautiful ancient remains, markets and beautiful churches such as the Church of St Paul the Apostle, pictured here
This trendy hotel with 37 colorful rooms is located in the heart of the lively Ladadika district, just north of the old port.
The Garden Bar serves pizzas, burgers and craft beers in a conservatory; Royal Ionian Radler Beers £3.60.
Double from £87 B&B (colorhotel.gr).
What to see and do
The Church of Saint Demetrius (photo), the patron saint of Thessaloniki (270-306 AD), is an important pilgrimage site, writes Tom
For fantastic views of Mount Olympus, take the elevator or stairs to the former OTE radio tower (photo)
Celebrate the saint
The Church of Saint Demetrius, the patron saint of Thessaloniki (270-306 AD), is an important pilgrimage site.
Demetrius was tortured at this location, then in a Roman bathhouse (thessalonikitourism.gr).
Birthplace of Atatürk
Just down the street from St. Demetrius Church you’ll come to Ataturk House, where Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, was born in 1881. Admission is free after a security scan.
Archeology for everyone
Don’t miss the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, one of the most beautiful museums of ancient artifacts in Greece.
The best £7 you can spend in the city (amth.gr).
Take a boat trip
It’s free to board one of the (slightly tacky) galleon-style ships along the boardwalk. Just pay for your drinks (£4.30 for a beer) on board.
Best views
Take the elevator or stairs to the 76-meter-high former OTE radio tower, where you have fantastic views of Mount Olympus. It’s free, with a cafe/bar at the top (skyline.bar).
Where to eat
Above that lies Kapani, one of the city’s main markets, just south of Dikastirion Square
Street food: beware of Koulouria (sesame bread rings)
Loupino
On Katouni, a lively cobbled street in Ladadika, Loupino stands out. Order enough and enjoy delicious tzatziki, fava (mixed bean) dips, feta cheese with honey, roasted octopus, grilled pork belly in barbecue sauce and delicious grilled chicken. About £25 for a feast.
4 Katouni (loupino.gr).
Nautiliaki
Delicious seafood next to the Rotunda, a huge red-brick building built by the Roman Emperor Galerius. Enjoy the meze of roe salad and anchovies
8 Agios Georgios Roundabout (nautiliaki.gr).
The intersection of flavors
This small canteen-style corner café is an example of a magirio – the ‘chef’s kitchen’ in the neighborhood.
Expect beef stew in wine sauce, meatball soup, chicken with peas and spaghetti with shrimp. Maximum €6.50 per dish. You eat outside on a ledge.
14 Filippou (tostavrodromitongeuseon.gr).
Kapani and Modiano markets
This pair of markets is located just south of Dikastirion Square. Drop by for a coffee (£1.30) at a café in one of the small alleys next to the olive and nut stalls.
Try the delicious bougatsa filo pastry (€2) served with sweet or savory filling – Café Serraikon has the best – and feta served with koulouria (sesame bread).
The boardwalk is lined with galleon-style ships, as pictured here
How to get there
Ryanair flies from Stansted to Thessaloniki from £56 return (ryanair.com). Easyjet flies from Gatwick and Manchester from £58 return (easyjet.com). To see: thessalonikitourism.gr, visitgreece.gr.