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Following in the footsteps of legends in the home of golf: a weekend to remember on St Andrews’ mighty New Course (with a stay in a fine hotel just a strong five-iron…)

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Deep breath. And another. One last look at the flag. And with that I pulled the club back and gave my driver a shove.

The ball flew off the clubface with a ‘ping’ and sailed high into the air, a fantastic shot – if only it had gone in the right direction…

‘For!’ I roared, red with shame and frustration.

The sound of giggling came up behind me and I turned to see my three friends doubled over in hysterics.

I stormed away glowing and a few minutes later noticed my ball was perfectly in the fairway St Andrews’ Old Course – home of golf.

St. Andrews’ beautiful clubhouse is located next to the opening hole on the incredible New Course

Water plays a big role on the New Course, Ben explains, with gaps along the Eden estuary

Water plays a big role on the New Course, Ben explains, with gaps along the Eden estuary

The sun rises and the flag dances in the wind on a beautiful day in St Andrews - the home of golf

The sun rises and the flag dances in the wind on a beautiful day in St Andrews – the home of golf

If I had played the Old Course it would have been a fantastic shot. As it was, I played the New course – a competition course that runs parallel to its famous neighbor.

I pulled out an 8-iron, hit a shot, and temporarily fulfilled a lifelong ambition: golfing on the Old Course.

We had flown into Edinburgh and driven some 80 minutes north to spend a few days at one of the world’s best golf destinations, and certainly the most famous.

People have been playing golf on the St Andrews links for 600 years. The history and traditions of the game, as well as the achievements of golfing greats, are woven into the city’s DNA.

Naturally, we tried – and failed – to get a tee time on the Old Course via the famous voting system.

Although disappointing, it is still a testament to this golf mecca that anyone (with a handicap of 36 or less) can play the Old Course by winning the voting lottery or by camping at the starter hut from 3am and waiting for dropouts.

So it was a case of out with the old and in with the new as we wandered the beautiful, undulating fairways and took in the splendor of St. Andrews’ New Course – which turned out to be a complete, total and utter pleasure.

Even on a Sunday in winter, the fairways were immaculate, the bunkers soft and the greens ‘absolutely mint’ – as a man in the pub had told me the night before. He wasn’t wrong.

The St Andrews Links complex has seven golf courses. Six of these, including the old and new courses, are in one location, while the seventh, the dramatic Castle Course, is just down the road.

Like excited schoolboys, we began our golf odyssey, winding from tee to green, weaving our way through the cavernous bunkers, often unable to escape their enormous faces.

There were good and bad shots, birdies and bogeys, and we were blown away by the spectacular course with the famous old town in the background. It felt like a privilege to be there.

Locals recommend placing everything around the green since the fairways are so manicured and the greens are mountainous.

The greens at St Andrews are legendary, says Ben: beautifully manicured and terrifyingly fast

The greens at St Andrews are legendary, says Ben: beautifully manicured and terrifyingly fast

Treacherous bunkers guard the greens and broom bushes punish golfers who stray from the line

Treacherous bunkers guard the greens and broom bushes punish golfers who stray from the line

St Andrews represents links golf at its finest and is one of the best venues in the world

St Andrews represents links golf at its finest and is one of the best venues in the world

The undulating fairways and well-protected greens make the New Course a classic St. Andrews test

The undulating fairways and well-protected greens make the New Course a classic St. Andrews test

More than once we’ve seen a ball go up a huge slope, but not quite make it to the top, turn around and return to the players’ feet. Note, hilarity.

A birdie on the 170-yard par 3 fifth hole sweetened the beer a little afterwards and did a lot to take the bad taste out of some of my wilder shots.

The New Course was built in 1895 by the manager of the green Old Tom Morris and is often referred to as the ‘oldest new course in the world’.

It is also generally recognized that it is slightly more difficult than the old one – and a good clutch test.

Aside from the lightning-fast greens and treacherous bunkers, the biggest danger is the wind, which whips around and wreaks havoc on club selection.

The sea also plays a major role on the incredible 220-metre par 3 ninth, which runs along the Eden Estuary. Don’t go left.

We crossed the forest of gorse bushes – another hazard that plays a role on every hole and should be avoided like the plague.

I enjoyed the treeless nature of the place, which allowed you to get away with errant tee shots… sometimes.

The sun shone and the wind died down and we were amazed to find ourselves playing in T-shirts in Scotland in November.

As the shadows lengthened, the clubhouse came into view. We stood on the last tee and looked out at a very familiar sight. The 1st and 18th of the Old Course – the widest fairway in golf – lay deserted.

We played the last one and hugged on the 18th green. It had been a day full of days that we would relive again and again that evening.

After a few quick pints we retired to the lovely Hotel du Vinlocated about a strong five-iron away from the Old Course’s hallowed 18th green.

Hotel du Vin - just a stone's throw from the 18th green on St Andrews Old Course

Hotel du Vin – just a stone’s throw from the 18th green on St Andrews Old Course

The beautiful view from the luxurious rooms - 'the perfect place to relax after a day of golf'

The beautiful view from the luxurious rooms – ‘the perfect place to relax after a day of golf’

Leather armchairs, super king-size beds and Egyptian cotton sheets come as standard

Leather armchairs, super king-size beds and Egyptian cotton sheets come as standard

Our elegant room, one of 42, had spectacular sea views and the property was perfectly located in the heart of the old town.

The walk-in rain shower, giant flat screen and super king size bed with Egyptian cotton sheets were all very welcome as we dropped our golf gear and relaxed in our new found stylish surroundings.

As evening fell, we dined on delicious steaks at the exceptional French Bistro du Vin, the jewel of the hotel.

Exhausted, we ordered enough to feed an army and especially enjoyed the whisky-cured salmon and tiger prawns to start.

The French onion soup is also highly recommended and the rosary goat cheese and caramelized onion quiche was divine.

Noticing that their butcher was supplying His Majesty, we dined like kings on tender 21-day aged fillet steak and 28-day aged ribeye, washed down with bottles of full-blood Chianti.

The hotel's restaurant is the 'jewel in the crown' and uses meat from the king's butcher

The hotel’s restaurant is the ‘jewel in the crown’ and uses meat from the king’s butcher

Breakfast was served with beautiful sea views over the dramatic coastline

Breakfast was served with beautiful sea views over the dramatic coastline

Private dining is possible as the hotel hosts functions and events

Private dining is possible as the hotel hosts functions and events

The beautiful bathrooms have a walk-in rain shower

The beautiful bathrooms have a walk-in rain shower

We ended our gastronomic feast with burnt Basque cheesecake, followed by creamy Irish coffee before retiring to the bar for cocktails and to lounge in leather armchairs.

It had been a thirsty day and we toasted long into the night.

Midnight came and went and we ended up walking the 18th fairway on the Old Course again.

We crossed the Swilcan Bridge reliving the memories of our own times and those of golfing spirits of old.

The track was bathed in moonlight and our laughter was carried away from the city and floated over the Black Sea.

What a journey. What a place. What a day to be alive.

TRAVEL FACTS

The New course at St Andrews Links start at £65 until March 31, 2024, then £92 from April 1-14, then £140 from April 15 – October 13, then £100 from October 14 and November 30.

Hotel du Vin Double bedrooms start at £149 from January and full details can be found by clicking here.

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