Luxembourg: The country the size of Dorset that you should put on your bucket list

Imagine being in a country where you can travel from end to end without paying a dime. Meet the first country in the world to offer public transport for everyone, completely free of charge: best regards, Luxembourg.

And while this was a domestic initiative to get cars off the road, the end result is a boon for tourists.

Luxembourg is landlocked by France, Germany and Belgium and is such a small dot on the map (the country is about the size of Dorset) that it can be hard to see at times. The Dutch, Belgians and French have been coming here for a long time, but British holidaymakers traditionally stay away. One look at Luxembourg City and it’s clear we’ve missed something.

The hilly capital teeters around and into a ravine. It’s a colorful jumble of Gothic spires, turrets and pastel houses, clinging to the steep sandstone walls of the gorge down to the river.

There’s a glass elevator to take you up and down – free to use, of course – so you can enjoy the view.

‘One view of the city of Luxembourg [above],’ writes Jo Kessel, ‘and it is clear that we have missed something’

Luxembourg has a tumultuous past. Over the centuries it has been fought over and ruled by the French, the Habsburgs and the Dutch and it was not until 1867 that it finally gained independence, although it lost a lot of land to its neighbours. Instead of a monarch as head of state, the country has a grand duke, making Luxembourg the only grand duchy in the world. The current duke, Henri, is 68 and took over when his father abdicated in 2000.

His palace (complete with marching soldiers) is built on a plateau. “He’s home,” my guide says, pointing to a parked Tesla.

It takes an hour to drive from the top to the bottom of Luxembourg, so instead of lugging my suitcase I planned day trips from the capital.

My hotel is located in the Kirchberg district on a hill, next to the Mudam Museum of Modern Art and opposite the European Court of Justice. It would have been an easy bus journey from the airport and it’s a five minute tram ride from Kirchberg into the city. But will it be just as easy to go outside the capital?

The first day is textbook. A tram and then a bus take me to the Moselle region, where terraced vineyards rise from the river. Schengen is the famous three-country point where three countries come together. Walk across the bridge from here and you are in Germany. Turn right and you’ll soon be in France. This builds thirst and the Domaine L&R Kox winery offers tastings. Their riesling and pinot noir slide nicely, but it’s the £22 a pop 2014 sparkling cremant that steals the show – it’s elegant, dry and dances on the tongue.

Jo visits Vianden Castle (above), a fairytale castle on a hill

Above is an aerial view of Esch-sur-Sure. Luxembourg has taken a huge hit, says Jo

Imagine being in a country where you can travel from end to end without paying a dime – that’s Luxembourg

Luxembourg is one of the world’s best freebies ever, declares Jo. Above is the Adolphe Bridge and Constitution Square in Luxembourg City

In the north I like to visit Vianden Castle (a fairytale castle on a hill), followed by Edward Steichen’s photo exhibition Family Of Man.

My latest adventure consists of a walk in the east, where forests seem almost alien. Gigantic 200-million-year-old rock stacks float between the trees, and the 70-mile Mullerthal Hiking Trail undulates between them.

For one of the smallest countries in Europe, Luxembourg packs a huge punch. It has culture, castles and vineyards as well as some of the most unique walking areas. Better yet, it can now be explored for absolutely nothing. You don’t have to pay to get on a bus, you don’t have to worry about buying the right ticket – it’s one of the world’s best free offers ever.