Does lip balm make my chapped lips worse?

Why lips get dry

The skin on your lips is not only thin, but it also lacks certain moisture-retaining properties that other parts of the skin have, such as hair follicles, oil glands and a thick layer of dead skin cells, said Dr. Rogers. That makes lips “so soft and sensitive,” she added.

When our lips are exposed to environmental stressors such as ultraviolet light, air pollutants, cold or high temperatures, and certain foods and drinks, they can become dry and irritated, said Dr. Sam Awan, a dermatologist in McKinney, Texas. Licking your lips, which you're likely to do when they're dry, can make the problem worse because the digestive enzymes in saliva can cause irritation.

That's why chapped lips are so common, said Dr. Awan.

What to look for and what to avoid with a lip balm

The most effective lip balms contain ingredients that attract moisture (known as humectants), add moisture and oil (emollients) and form a protective barrier to retain moisture (occlusive agents), said Dr. Awan.

Look for products that contain petroleum jelly (commonly listed as petrolatum or white petrolatum on the labels), castor oil and glycerin, said Dr. Rogers. The American Academy of Dermatology also recommends lip balms that contain ceramides, hemp seed oil, dimethicone, mineral oil and shea butter. Coconut, avocado and extra virgin olive oil also help nourish chapped lips, said Dr. Danny C. Del Campo, a dermatologist in Chicago.

Use a lip product with an SPF 30 or higher if you plan to be outside, even in the winter, said Dr. Del Campo. This not only protects against the UV damage that dehydration can cause, but also against the damage that causes sunburn and possibly skin cancer.