Perfect break from eight million mopeds and motorcycles: Inside the Park Hyatt Saigon – a colonial-style grande dame in the heart of the historic city

‘Welcome to Saigon Waterpark!’ shouts Hong, beaming through the heavy rain showers as we briefly climb off our scooters to be dressed in some serious waterproof clothing.

With eight million mopeds and motorcycles (fifteen for each car), there’s only one way to explore Ho Chi Minh City in a day, according to my husband, and that’s to join the two-wheeled swarm that speeds through the streets as you cling to a woman who knows the best restaurants.

Then thank Uncle Ho for that XO Toursthe first all-female motorcycle company in Vietnam, combining an exciting four-hour tour of the city (it was called Saigon until the communist victory in 1975) with an insider’s guide to the best local food.

Hong Tong, the leader of our group, meets us in the lobby of our hotel, the colonial-style grande dame Parkhyatt Saigonlocated in the historic heart of the city.

With the chandeliered lobby lined with artwork, lacquered desks and giant vases of flowers, I look quite out of place dressed for adventure in Zara battles and trainers. Not so Hong, who arrives in a stylish uniform of white silk tunic and smart teal trousers, along with a helmet and a megawatt smile.

The hotel’s colonial-style swimming pool is set in lush, landscaped gardens

‘Historic heart of the city’: Fiona checks in with her husband and three children

All five of us are paired with a female guide – freckled Felix, 11, causing quite a stir – while my daughters Rose, 17, and Evie, 16, are soon chatting and laughing like old friends with their young drivers.

“Mama,” Evie whispers urgently as I try to position myself behind Hong. “They know where all the cheap cosmetics stores are.” And boy, do they.

They also know where to find the best street food and as we fly around, shedding our raincoats and sitting on a series of plastic chairs, we are amazed at the quality of the dishes coming out of the simplest of kitchens.

Felix and I count chicken, beef, shrimp, scallops, crab and, yes, goat, among our evening menu, while the non-meat eaters are equally satisfied with vegetarian versions of the national broth, pho.

By the time our ladies take us back to our hotel, we are steeped in the Saigon spirit. All that’s needed now is a piping hot bath in our luxurious marble bathroom, a nightcap of Negroni in the hotel’s chic 2 Lam Son bar, and a world of sleep in king-size white linens, while an old-fashioned ceiling fan gently floats above your head is buzzing. .

Of the hotel breakfast, Fiona says it was “by far the most extensive and artistic buffet” she has ever seen. Above you can see Opera, the hotel’s open kitchen lounge, where breakfast is served

The hotel’s chandeliered lobby is ‘lined with works of art and giant vases of flowers’

XO Tours is the first all-female motorcycle company in Vietnam

We wake up refreshed and ready to explore the rest of our palatial pit stop.

The breakfast is so sublime – by far the most extensive and artistic buffet I have ever seen – that it seems only right that it is served in a restaurant called Opera. High ceilings are decorated with elaborate installations: a confection of delicate glass clouds floats above the bar, while outside in the conservatory, large lotus flower fans spin above the early morning photo.

‘It rains?’ Felix asks, looking up from his bowl.

That’s not it. That only means one thing: time to get wet again. This time in the pool.

Located on the third floor, set among lush, landscaped gardens and artfully lined with cream-colored sky houses, I could lie here all morning boring my daughters with stories about Graham Greene and his love affair with the land.

“They say what you look for you’ll find here,” I say, quoting a line from The Quiet American, which he wrote in this city.

“He must have stayed here then,” Rose smiles.