Exploring the glittering coast of Turkey before hopping over to the Greek island of Rhodes 

By Rachel Booth  

Foreign travel should – even in a world shrunken by cheap flights and the internet – conjure at least one slice of magic, so evocative, so alien and enthralling that it remains with you forever.

One such moment happened as I savoured the evening from the open-air bar on the roof terrace of the Kalkan Regency Hotel. Below in the harbour and on the surrounding hillsides, pretty lights of many colours were blinking into life, a cool breeze refreshed the dusty air and a yellow moon was ascending. Then it happened; from the town’s whitewashed mosque, just visible from our high vantage point, the melancholy call to prayer echoed around the valley, bringing goosebumps to my skin. Respectfully our host turned off the bar’s background music so that we could drink in the scene, a timely reminder that while we were in a country that has become a popular tourist destination, there would be much here to discover.

Kalkan, on Turkey’s southern Mediterranean coast, began life as a trading post founded by Greeks around 200 years ago. It tumbles steeply down to a bay once the home of sailing ships taking silk to North Africa and Europe. Now it is the hub for bars and restaurants, fishing boats and splendid timber-hulled gullets that run day-long cruises along the coast. At the edge of the town, is a pebbly, crescent-shaped beach lapped by the crystal clear Med – a tranquil spot early in the morning.

For me, Kalkan was best enjoyed at this time of day when the cobbled streets were being washed clean for the revelries ahead. While others slumber you can take breakfast of locally produced honey, cheese, cured meats and olives at one of the dozens of quaint cafes draped in lustrous Bougainvillea. The Turkish coffee has a rough texture but a wonderfully nutty flavour that you’ll come to relish.

From the harbour, narrow, picturesque lanes filled with quaint shops and cafes traverse their way up. There is no getting away from the fact this is a major destination for British tourists but it has retained authenticity and charm.

In August the day heats up quickly and it’s best to find a spot by the sea. Around the huge oyster-shaped bay there are many beach clubs. These little havens built on stilts into the rocky shoreline are where, for a smallish fee you can spend the whole day dipping in and out of the azure waters, lazily stopping for lunch and being waited on. At the quieter locations you might even be joined in the water by giant turtles who bob to the surface.

Kalkan is blessed with a giant-sized bay – a playground for those looking to keep children and teenagers entertained. If you like the thrill of being towed at high speed on inflatables and bounced whooping over the waves, there is no shortage of activities. Don’t be alarmed if this isn’t your bag, the buzz of motorboats and jet skis isn’t intrusive. I found it an amusing spectacle to be watched from a distance and the comfort of my sun lounger.

The Kalkan Regency is perched high above the town-elevated enough to take the harsh edge off the humidity and heat of August. What is that special ingredient that makes one feel simultaneously relaxed and excited, perfectly at home and also eager to chat to people you’ve never met? Whatever it might be, this beautiful, family run hotel has it.

During the day life revolves around the peaceful swimming pool. You can swim up to the bar for a drink and order lunch at the pleasant pool side restaurant. The scent of bread baking in the nearby stone oven is an irresistible invitation.

The hotel is quite rightly very proud of its traditional Hamman – an ancient looking Turkish bath. In this steamy, echoey chamber, wash away your cares with a vigorous scrub-down and massage, as travellers to this wonderful country have done down the ages.

The Regency’s pistachio stucco walls cloaked in vines and the ubiquitous Bougainvillea calm and soothe. Tiled pathways wind through little lemon groves taking guests to the majority of its 47 air-conditioned rooms.

Our two boys, both in their mid-teens, were more than pleased with their twin room which had a balcony overlooking the lush gardens. It wasn’t by design that we were situated on the other side of the hotel, more of a happy accident. It’s a joy to be on holiday with your teenagers but a bit of distance is no bad thing – for all concerned. We enjoyed our peaceful suite and the luxury of our very own swimming pool and sundeck with views out to sea.

The hotel also has its own gullet moored in Kalkan harbour and every guest is taken on a day-long cruise. The handsome vessel powers out of the bay and westwards along the coast, occasionally dropping anchor in pretty bays where you can snorkel and swim among the rocks spotting turtles and exotic species of fish. Our captain took to the water with a spear gun and came back laden with fish for his dinner. Lunch on deck with a sea breeze refreshing our salty skin was the highlight for me.

We returned to shore in the early evening as Kalkan was gearing up to feed and entertain. It remains hot throughout the night in August, so open-air rooftop restaurants are the best places to feast on excellent local dishes. Try The Fish Terrace, where the catch of the day was grilled simply over coals and served with salad and delicate pickles. For a more European experience the excellent Coast Tapas and Grill is a beautiful restaurant in the town’s former olive oil factory. The ancient olive press takes pride of place in the downstairs bar.

There are also lots of lively bars and a few noisy nightclubs – but this town is no Ayia Napa, the notorious Cypriot part town. In fact, parents with teenagers a little older than ours, told us they were happy to let their youngsters explore the nightlife without them because of Kalkan’s reputation for safety and civility.

But for the best and coolest – in the old sense of the word – rooftop eating experience lets go back to the terrace at the Regency. Picture yourself sipping a crisp glass of wine as the chef expertly spit roasts a succulent lamb over an open fire nearby. Imagine the evening sky washed with mauve and purple as stars begin to appear high above, then you will understand the attraction of this sublime spot.

It was hard to move on after just one week, but we had decided to try a two-base holiday. The rugged hills behind Kalkan, where it is much cooler and far less touristy was the location for the second half of our break.

Some homes take your breath away. The three-bedroom villa Sade, near the village of Islamlar, is one such place. The extraordinarily luxurious and elegant contemporary design bathe you in that five-star feeling. A twenty-two-metre infinity pool with sun loungers suspended over the water practically orders you to dive in. It also boasts a gym, sauna and Hamman. Why leave this oasis you might ask, well you don’t really need to, for Simpson Travel provides a concierge service that delivers fresh groceries to your door every day. However, there are many reasons to get out and explore.

Here tourists are less in evidence. Nevertheless, the welcoming locals work hard to give European visitors an authentic Turkish experience. We made frequent visits to a nearby spot, rather incongruously named The Village Restaurant and Café. There we enjoyed fresh, lovingly prepared delicacies for a fraction of the cost of feeding a family in Kalkan. Succulent grilled fish, mouth-watering halloumi cheese and the lightest Baklava we had ever tasted were among the treats proudly presented. You are high enough here to see the small islands just off the coast and for the night air to have a welcome freshness.

Head inland to explore the lush green interior of this region, particularly Saklikent National Park. Do visit the spectacular canyon where you can ride the gentle rapids on huge inflatables but only if you are prepared to get up early to avoid the crowds. We had a fantastic day sea kayaking too. It is easy, even for absolute beginners. Our guide reassuringly told us that it is virtually impossible to capsize and that if we managed to, we would get a prize.

Two to a boat, we headed out to explore. The highlight was paddling over an ancient Lycian city partially submerged on the shores of Kekova island. It is a protected area so you can’t get out and swim, but the mysterious ruins are clearly visible several feet below the surface. From there, we paddled back to the mainland for lunch before climbing a steep hill to the take in stunning views from the medieval Simena Castle.

Sunkissed and tired, the air-conditioned Villa Sade beckoned. On the way home we picked up four plump sea-bass caught that morning from a small store in the nearby village. Fresh fish is bountiful and costs next to nothing.

Later, as the light began to fade my husband fired up the barbeque. The boys played in the pool and I… well I did absolutely nothing at all. Then came that spell-binding song from the mosque once more.Foreign travel should – even in a world shrunken by cheap flights and the internet – conjure at least one slice of magic, so evocative, so alien and enthralling that it remains with you forever.

One such moment happened as I savoured the evening from the open-air bar on the roof terrace of the Kalkan Regency Hotel. Below in the harbour and on the surrounding hillsides, pretty lights of many colours were blinking into life, a cool breeze refreshed the dusty air and a yellow moon was ascending. Then it happened; from the town’s whitewashed mosque, just visible from our high vantage point, the melancholy call to prayer echoed around the valley, bringing goosebumps to my skin. Respectfully our host turned off the bar’s background music so that we could drink in the scene, a timely reminder that while we were in a country that has become a popular tourist destination, there would be much here to discover.

Kalkan, on Turkey’s southern Mediterranean coast, began life as a trading post founded by Greeks around 200 years ago. It tumbles steeply down to a bay once the home of sailing ships taking silk to North Africa and Europe. Now it is the hub for bars and restaurants, fishing boats and splendid timber-hulled gullets that run day-long cruises along the coast. At the edge of the town, is a pebbly, crescent-shaped beach lapped by the crystal clear Med – a tranquil spot early in the morning.

For me, Kalkan was best enjoyed at this time of day when the cobbled streets were being washed clean for the revelries ahead. While others slumber you can take breakfast of locally produced honey, cheese, cured meats and olives at one of the dozens of quaint cafes draped in lustrous Bougainvillea. The Turkish coffee has a rough texture but a wonderfully nutty flavour that you’ll come to relish.

From the harbour, narrow, picturesque lanes filled with quaint shops and cafes traverse their way up. There is no getting away from the fact this is a major destination for British tourists but it has retained authenticity and charm.

In August the day heats up quickly and it’s best to find a spot by the sea. Around the huge oyster-shaped bay there are many beach clubs. These little havens built on stilts into the rocky shoreline are where, for a smallish fee you can spend the whole day dipping in and out of the azure waters, lazily stopping for lunch and being waited on. At the quieter locations you might even be joined in the water by giant turtles who bob to the surface.

Kalkan is blessed with a giant-sized bay – a playground for those looking to keep children and teenagers entertained. If you like the thrill of being towed at high speed on inflatables and bounced whooping over the waves, there is no shortage of activities. Don’t be alarmed if this isn’t your bag, the buzz of motorboats and jet skis isn’t intrusive. I found it an amusing spectacle to be watched from a distance and the comfort of my sun lounger.

The Kalkan Regency is perched high above the town-elevated enough to take the harsh edge off the humidity and heat of August. What is that special ingredient that makes one feel simultaneously relaxed and excited, perfectly at home and also eager to chat to people you’ve never met? Whatever it might be, this beautiful, family run hotel has it.

During the day life revolves around the peaceful swimming pool. You can swim up to the bar for a drink and order lunch at the pleasant pool side restaurant. The scent of bread baking in the nearby stone oven is an irresistible invitation.

The hotel is quite rightly very proud of its traditional Hamman – an ancient looking Turkish bath. In this steamy, echoey chamber, wash away your cares with a vigorous scrub-down and massage, as travellers to this wonderful country have done down the ages.

The Regency’s pistachio stucco walls cloaked in vines and the ubiquitous Bougainvillea calm and soothe. Tiled pathways wind through little lemon groves taking guests to the majority of its 47 air-conditioned rooms.

Our two boys, both in their mid-teens, were more than pleased with their twin room which had a balcony overlooking the lush gardens. It wasn’t by design that we were situated on the other side of the hotel, more of a happy accident. It’s a joy to be on holiday with your teenagers but a bit of distance is no bad thing – for all concerned. We enjoyed our peaceful suite and the luxury of our very own swimming pool and sundeck with views out to sea.

The hotel also has its own gullet moored in Kalkan harbour and every guest is taken on a day-long cruise. The handsome vessel powers out of the bay and westwards along the coast, occasionally dropping anchor in pretty bays where you can snorkel and swim among the rocks spotting turtles and exotic species of fish. Our captain took to the water with a spear gun and came back laden with fish for his dinner. Lunch on deck with a sea breeze refreshing our salty skin was the highlight for me.

We returned to shore in the early evening as Kalkan was gearing up to feed and entertain. It remains hot throughout the night in August, so open-air rooftop restaurants are the best places to feast on excellent local dishes. Try The Fish Terrace, where the catch of the day was grilled simply over coals and served with salad and delicate pickles. For a more European experience the excellent Coast Tapas and Grill is a beautiful restaurant in the town’s former olive oil factory. The ancient olive press takes pride of place in the downstairs bar.

There are also lots of lively bars and a few noisy nightclubs – but this town is no Ayia Napa, the notorious Cypriot part town. In fact, parents with teenagers a little older than ours, told us they were happy to let their youngsters explore the nightlife without them because of Kalkan’s reputation for safety and civility.

But for the best and coolest – in the old sense of the word – rooftop eating experience lets go back to the terrace at the Regency. Picture yourself sipping a crisp glass of wine as the chef expertly spit roasts a succulent lamb over an open fire nearby. Imagine the evening sky washed with mauve and purple as stars begin to appear high above, then you will understand the attraction of this sublime spot.

It was hard to move on after just one week, but we had decided to try a two-base holiday. The rugged hills behind Kalkan, where it is much cooler and far less touristy was the location for the second half of our break.

Some homes take your breath away. The three-bedroom villa Sade, near the village of Islamlar, is one such place. The extraordinarily luxurious and elegant contemporary design bathe you in that five-star feeling. A twenty-two-metre infinity pool with sun loungers suspended over the water practically orders you to dive in. It also boasts a gym, sauna and Hamman. Why leave this oasis you might ask, well you don’t really need to, for Simpson Travel provides a concierge service that delivers fresh groceries to your door every day. However, there are many reasons to get out and explore.

Here tourists are less in evidence. Nevertheless, the welcoming locals work hard to give European visitors an authentic Turkish experience. We made frequent visits to a nearby spot, rather incongruously named The Village Restaurant and Café. There we enjoyed fresh, lovingly prepared delicacies for a fraction of the cost of feeding a family in Kalkan. Succulent grilled fish, mouth-watering halloumi cheese and the lightest Baklava we had ever tasted were among the treats proudly presented. You are high enough here to see the small islands just off the coast and for the night air to have a welcome freshness.

Head inland to explore the lush green interior of this region, particularly Saklikent National Park. Do visit the spectacular canyon where you can ride the gentle rapids on huge inflatables but only if you are prepared to get up early to avoid the crowds. We had a fantastic day sea kayaking too. It is easy, even for absolute beginners. Our guide reassuringly told us that it is virtually impossible to capsize and that if we managed to, we would get a prize.

Two to a boat, we headed out to explore. The highlight was paddling over an ancient Lycian city partially submerged on the shores of Kekova island. It is a protected area so you can’t get out and swim, but the mysterious ruins are clearly visible several feet below the surface. From there, we paddled back to the mainland for lunch before climbing a steep hill to the take in stunning views from the medieval Simena Castle.

Sunkissed and tired, the air-conditioned Villa Sade beckoned. On the way home we picked up four plump sea-bass caught that morning from a small store in the nearby village. Fresh fish is bountiful and costs next to nothing.

Later, as the light began to fade my husband fired up the barbeque. The boys played in the pool and I… well I did absolutely nothing at all. Then came that spell-binding song from the mosque once more.

Rachel Booth was a guest of Simpson Travel, which offers seven nights B&B at The Kalkan Regency from £773 per person based on two sharing. Price includes flights, private return transfers, pre-departure and overseas concierge services. 

Seven nights at Villa Sade is from £889 per person, based on six sharing. Price includes: villa, flights, hire car (including additional driver and zero excess insurance) welcome pack, pre-departure andoverseas concierge service.

For more from Simpson Travel call 020 8003 6557 or visit www.simpsontravel.com.