How to dress like an adult: Flatter your face with an age-defying funnel neckline

You may or may not know that Phoebe Philo – the designer who made Celine the most coveted label of its time – launched the first collection under her own name a few weeks ago.

These clothes are beyond the budget of ordinary citizens, and most of them sold out within hours, but still it’s a good time to reflect on something that became Philo’s signature and is now a staple in the wardrobe of every woman above the 50: the funnel neck.

This isn’t the collar that Princess Diana wore on the cover of Vogue, or the second-skin wrist that became Shiv’s daily uniform in the TV series Succession.

This is a loose, structured polo collar that is wide enough and high enough to pull around your ears.

When Philo was with Celine, she wore this to take a bow at the end of her shows, with chinos and white sneakers.

Marion Cotillard front row at the Jean-Paul Gaultier show during Haute Couture Fashion Week, Paris, France, on January 24, 2018

In every portrait taken of her at the time, she is either staring out from under a thick ribbed cowl pulled up to her nose, or her face is nestled in a cashmere cowl. It is no coincidence that Philo always wore a high-neck sweater in photos. The neckline forms a smooth base for the face and, slightly folded over on one side, creates a soft, jawline-flattering frame.

With a stiff, tailored jacket draped around the shoulders, or a jacket with sharp shoulders and a shrug on top (both Philo signatures), you look businesslike and uncluttered: no buttons, no collar, no competing neckline, just a tight united front.

It’s the modern way to look dressed up yet casual. And if you don’t like your neck, it covers that problem too.

It is not surprising that this sweater model has become one of the building blocks of a chic working woman’s wardrobe, the perfect complement to smart wide-leg trousers or luxurious track pants, as well as to combinations with flowing midi skirts. And it doesn’t have to cost Philo any prizes: it’s all about the proportions and weight.

Zara is my favorite for medium weight structured polo necks.

The one I wear most days is light gray with a charcoal contrast trim which makes it look stylish (although it is polyester and acrylic and machine washable). It’s hip-length with side slits for a neat fit, loose enough to wear a shirt underneath, and of course has just the right neck (€35.99, zara.com).

My perfect turtleneck is ribbed; plain polo necks can look boggy. It should be about 18.5 to 19 centimeters high – that’s long enough that you can stand with plenty of wrinkles under your ears (your head should sit in them like a strawberry in its skin), and wide enough so that when it folds over is, You don’t look like you’re wearing a wetsuit.

Too short polo necks that are cut in exactly the wrong place and draw attention to your neck; if ones are too long, you can’t stand them upright and they can look bulky when folded or, worse, hang in a hood and instantly add a decade to your age.

Victoria Beckham is pictured in New York, United States of America on December 7, 2016

A tight-fitting polo neck will make you look like a Cluedo piece with a giant head, and a too-thick polo neck will look like a neck brace.

To avoid all of the above, I look for polo necks with a slit at the back – they have a looser fit and never look bulky – side vents to keep the shape from looking boxy, and a slightly fluffy texture because this gives them a designer feel.

As well as Zara, Arket (£77, arket.com) and Marks & Spencer (£35, markandspencer.com) are good places to look for a high-neck jumper. Chinti & Parker makes a smart turtleneck with a center seam in a cashmere wool blend (£71.25, chinti andparker.com) and the colors that will serve you best are grey, navy and brown.

I also favor funnel necks – ones that don’t roll over – because they can look neater. Marks & Spencer does well in brown (£69), while Anya Hindmarch’s cashmere jumper for Uniqlo, with the eyelet detail on the neck, would make a good Christmas gift if anyone is feeling generous (£109.90, uniqlo.com) .

Otherwise there are turtlenecks (shorter polo necks), which are harder to get right, but if I didn’t like my neck I’d be tempted by Hush’s style in ecru with black crochet seams (£95, hush- uk .com).

It happens to be called Celine and, appropriately, looks smarter and cooler than your average sweater.