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The rise of the K-permanent! The ’90s look once loved by Julia Roberts and Kylie Minogue is ready for a comeback as TikTok stars and Korean idols make curls cool again

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The perm, long ridiculed as one of fashion’s most embarrassing hairstyles, is making a surprising comeback.

The look, which is short for “permanent wave,” was pretty much dead and buried in the style world long before the millennium, but like every trend you can think of, it’s back in vogue — thanks to a slew of TikTokers and K-Pop stars.

Who will lead the wave(s) this time? Korean-Australian teen star Danielle Marsh, who is in the K-Pop band NewJeans, wore a full set of tight curls last year, and recently American model Bella Hadid wore her hair in relaxed waves.

Hollywood star Katie Holmes has also teased her famous brunette locks into softly tousled curls many times this year, most recently during New York Fashion Week.

If we go back to the 1990s, the perm – achieved via a bunch of hot rods, a lot of patience and some pretty harsh chemicals – was the most sought-after look.

New waves! K-pop star Danielle Marsh, 18, who is in the band NewJeans, pictured with a full head of tight curls; the perm has become popular in Korean and Japanese styles – and is also making a comeback in Europe and the US

Teenage girls wanted coppery long curls à la Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman, or girl next door vibes thanks to Kylie’s breakthrough role as mechanic Charlene in Neighbors.

And men? The memory of footballers with shaggy perms in the 1980s remains strong for many – who could forget Kevin Keegan’s famous tight curls when he was on the pitch at the height of his career?

Now the rebranding has begun in earnest, through the likes of Timothee Chalamet – and his signature loose brunette curls – and Game of Thrones star Kit Harrington.

And even footballers are rediscovering curls – albeit this time with a shaggy top made neater with closely shaved sides.

TikTok is flooded with Gen-Zers talking about how to get the latest look, including using diffuser extensions on hair dryers and texturizing products to define and enhance curls.

Tokyo-based hairstylist Hiroumi shares a shaggy bleach blonde look;  the perm is becoming extremely popular in Southeast Asian countries, including Japan and Korea

Tokyo-based hairstylist Hiroumi shares a shaggy bleach blonde look; the perm is becoming extremely popular in Southeast Asian countries, including Japan and Korea

Supermodel Bella Hadid has been wearing her brunette locks in messy curls in recent months

Supermodel Bella Hadid has been wearing her brunette locks in messy curls in recent months

A young Kylie Minogue, pictured with voluminous hair in her breakout role in Neighbours

Julia Roberts made millions of '90s teens want long auburn curls

A young Kylie Minogue, pictured with voluminous hair in her breakout role in Neighbours. Right: Julia Roberts made millions of ’90s teens want long auburn curls

And there are plenty of clips of people sitting in salons too, with neat rows of perm wands, or lathered up with perm lotion.

While some are blessed with naturally tumbling curls, the vast majority of us will have to reach for the curl chemicals in 2024.

There are different types of perms depending on how you want the curls to look.

A traditional perm uses hot rods wrapped horizontally over the head to create a uniform, airy curl, while a ‘body wave perm’ is the look proving popular this time around – as it creates a softer look ; loose and relaxed waves with volume.

Celebrity hairstylist Tom Smith previously told the Mail that a DIY at-home perm could lead to disaster and urged anyone considering taking the plunge to see an expert.

Fancy a Keegan?  The ex-England football manager sported a sleek perm at the height of his career in the 1980s

Fancy a Keegan? The ex-England football manager sported a sleek perm at the height of his career in the 1980s

Actress Katie Holmes arrives at the Michael Kors fashion show in New York earlier this month;  the Hollywood star has often worn her straight long hair in softer curls lately

Actress Katie Holmes arrives at the Michael Kors fashion show in New York earlier this month; the Hollywood star has often worn her straight long hair in softer curls lately

“A perm uses a chemical ingredient that breaks down the molecular structure of the hair, followed by a second step that sticks it back together,” he explained.

‘There’s a matter of minutes difference between a perm and what’s known as “gummy breaking hair” (damaged or very stretchy hair) – so this is definitely best left to the professionals.

‘If you want to experiment and see if a perm is the right fight for you, you can purchase some hair styling tools.

‘I would definitely recommend going this route first before getting a perm.’

Crazy about curls? Types of permanent

Traditional perm: Hot rods wrapped horizontally over the head to create a uniform, airy curl. Best for the entire body or a base for further styling. A traditional perm has a more even and regular curl pattern instead of loose waves. They always have an ‘s’ curl pattern and can range from very tight to medium, only becoming loose when they fall out a little.

Digital permanent: This is actually the exact same process as a traditional perm. The name just evolved because the hot rods are controlled with a digital screen display. The trend for a ‘digital’ perm has come from Japan, where it is the most popular hair trend.

Spiral permanent: Perm rods are rolled vertically around the head, with the curl pattern forming a spiral. This is a less common perm type, but provides more of a coil definition that can best be described as tight, twisted and bouncy. I suggest you don’t have this perm unless your hair is shoulder length or even longer. It’s a fantastic way to add volume to your hair. This perm style was huge in the late 80’s and early 90’s, everyone wanted this look!

Body wave permanent: Perfect for people who have naturally straight hair and cannot easily hold a curl naturally with a styling tool. A body wave perm creates beautiful loose and relaxed waves with volume. The perm can sometimes only last three months, which may require another visit to the salon.

Permanent with multiple textures: Different sized rods and rollers are used on the hair to create a combination of curls. By doing this, this technique will achieve a finished look that is very natural, with curls that are both loose and tight. To achieve the best results, your hair should preferably be medium to long.

Olaplex permanent: All perms should now include Olaplex in their process due to its restorative qualities that dramatically improve the quality and longevity of the perm.

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